I don't remember exactly when I became interested in photography. It may have been the mid or late 70's when I developed my first film. Around 82 or 83 I printed my first color shots. Until the end, he held on to film cameras, and bought the first digital camera only in 2005 or 6. It was an inexpensive camera, which was popularly called the "soap box" - Canon PowerShot A430.
Then this model had just begun to be produced and all the billboards of the sleeping area in which I live to this day were hung with advertisements for this Canon. If I'm not mistaken, then it cost about $60-70, including discounts. Let me just say that I was lucky. At that time, this Canon completely covered almost my needs. And this, even despite the fact that he did not give the opportunity to manually select and set the aperture - perhaps this is the main point that bothered me the most.
But I was doubly lucky when this random purchase closed questions when photographing the instrument after I became interested in sharpening in 2009. The sharpening itself was a forced step, but it (as they say) quickly hooked me. This is where the same Canon A430 came in handy with its very decent, as it turned out, work in macro mode!
All my photos (and this is far from a few hundred shots), which until the spring of 2019 I published on various forums, social networks and in this Blog, were taken with this camera. For me, he was an indispensable assistant until he refused to work in the spring of 2019.
Well, every technique has its own resource ...
There was a problem that had to be solved - at least in the near future, so as not to stop the work of the Blog. Of course I also looked at prices for new cameras. Those that you can try are in the price segment from a few hundred $$$. But I am not engaged in research activities, I do not write scientific papers, and my Blog (with a happy set of circumstances) is unlikely to bring in more than $ 200, and if you're lucky, more than $ 300 a year. Therefore, at this stage, I did not seriously consider buying a new camera.
But I tried the options available. The first of these, of course, were mobile phones. It turned out that not all of them have a macro mode. Cheap Chinese - problems with color reproduction. You can achieve some sharpness of the picture if the sun falls on the subject. Out of 10-15 frames, 1-2 are selected for publication. By the way, several publications of that time were made using the camera of this phone.
The camera of the middle-aged iPhone 4 looks very solid. Of the phones that I tried, this was the best option and there are several articles in the Blog in which photos were taken by this phone. It betrays colors well, comfortable contrast, fast shutter response even in not too bright light ... But there is not enough sharpness when photographing small objects at close range.
Lenovo tablet. Compared to a Chinese phone, things are a little better with color reproduction, but the inconvenience when photographing is due to the size of the gadget.
The Fuji camera lasted the longest (I don’t remember the model, I’ll add after clarification), which, by the will of fate, from time to time was at my disposal. IMHO, a great camera for the money. Almost any mode setting. Aperture setting - Fuji feels good with this, how important it is sometimes when you can set the depth of field! Moderate sharpness in macro modes. It can be better, but good is not sought from good. The inconvenience was the size of the lens, which blocked the light and added unnecessary shadows. It is solved by changing the lighting and additional illumination of the instrument when photographing. I liked the camera, but it was not always at hand when needed.
Therefore, six months later, I returned to that common truth that a temporary solution does not eliminate the problem. During this trial and error on the Internet, I posted pictures taken earlier of the Canon PowerShot A430 before it broke, plus those photos that were taken by FUJI phones and cameras.
If you take a step away from the title of the topic, then the publishing process itself is simple and any Internet user knows it. There is no mystery here, and I have already spoken about this on the pages of this Blog.
Yes, I edit pictures after before posting. To do this, I still use the free version of the FastStone MaxView image viewer (resize, brightness, contrast plus convert to .png format) and the EasyWatermark program for watermarking. The whole process, before uploading photos to the published article, takes about 10 minutes. time.
Knowing that some sharpeners, when editing photos of a sharpened tool, use Photoshop, edit their pictures for 12 hours (they themselves do not hide it) and create masterpieces, sometimes I catch myself thinking that I must be doing something wrong. .. But I don’t even take photos as I can and without any desire to please someone, but because it’s convenient for me.
Perhaps that is why, having tried different options, I returned to my not yet forgotten past experience ... and in the summer of 2019 I again bought a Canon PowerShot A430, which was vintage - this model has long been discontinued. I understand that 4 MP was not serious even when I bought it 15 years ago. And again a soap dish) But, I hope that in the near future the question of how to photograph an instrument with its sharpening will not be in front of me ... Therefore, let it be nostalgia.
By the way, I recommend not discounting the issue of editing photos of a sharpened tool, which I mentioned only in passing. It is on them that an opinion is often formed on the Internet about the success of a sharpener in his profession. OK. But how do you feel about the level of his skill if you know that the photos of the work you admire were edited for twelve hours?
It's almost two business days. How trustworthy are these photos?
Just for information - for five or six years now I have not followed the activities of some sharpeners, knowing about their predilection for Photoshop.
Well, it’s quite easy to check how much a particular photo has been edited. How this can be found out, I described in detail in the article "", which was previously published in the Sharpening Blog.
Have a great day and good luck choosing!
P.S. If you look at the situation from the outside, then instead of one old camera, I bought the same one. But the above is just an example of how for very little money ($15 in 2019) I solved an unexpected problem with illustrations for my articles in this Blog. This is a special case and should not be considered as a recommendation. This is just a small story of buying a camera for the Sharpening Blog...
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
March 25, 2020
Everyone - always sharp and safe work!
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
March 23, 2020
March 20, 2020
Use this data if you think you have reason to be concerned. And if it turns out that they are, then immediately contact your family doctor for advice:
P.S. Share this spreadsheet with family, loved ones and friends. Perhaps for someone she will clarify incomprehensible issues related to the coronavirus or (if everything is already so bad) will convince you to see a doctor, and not self-medicate ...
March 15, 2020
Created 02/25/20, last update - 02/25/20
March 10, 2020
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
March 05, 2020
Have a nice day and safe internet everyone!
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Photo by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)March 01, 2020
| Temper color chart for carbon steel:* | |
| Bright yellow | 1100°C |
| Dark yellow | 1040°C |
| orange yellow | 980°C |
| Orange | 930°C |
| red-orange | 870°C |
| bright red | 820°C |
| Red | 760°C |
| dull red | 650°C |
| Reddish with a gray tint | 590°C |
| Gray with a red tint | 540°C |
| Dark grey | 430°C |
| Grey-blue | 320°C |
| Light blue | 310°C |
| Blue | 300°C |
| Dark violet | 280°C |
| Violet | 270°C |
| Brown purple | 260°C |
| Brown | 250°C |
| Light brown | 240°C |
| golden yellow | 230°C |
| Light yellow | 220°C |
| Straw | 210°C |
| Light straw | 200°C |
* Depending on the composition and thermal conductivity of the steel, the temperature values for individual tint colors may differ slightly from those given in the table.
You should also remember that:
1. The tint of the tint is affected by the heating rate of the steel, the exposure time, lighting, the presence of traces of oil or chemicals, reagents, air or gaseous media, etc.
2. For alloy steels and stainless steels that are more resistant to air oxidation, tint colors begin to be noticeable at higher temperatures.
3. The thickness of the oxide film increases with increasing heating time - this should be taken into account if the tool or part is subjected to constant or intermittent heating. Therefore, steel that has been kept for a long time (with constant or intermittent heating) at a temperature of 200 ° C may turn brown or purple. Although at the same time the temperature of its heating never exceeded the one necessary to obtain a light straw color of tint.
4. Increasing the thickness of the oxide film may cause malfunction of the hinged instruments.
That's all for now.
Sources: wikipedia.org, threeplanes.net, avventurosamente.it
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Created on 27.09.10, last update - 25.02.20
Created on 10/03/10, last updated on 02/28/20
February 25, 2020
P.S.1. The Sharpening Blog previously published an article "". Read it, it's interesting and resonates with the topic of today's article.
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In manicure parlors, hairdressers and beauty salons, physical (steam, air, heated glass beads) and chemical (chemical solutions) methods are usually used for sterilization. The need for sterilization is governed by state, national and local laws, rules and regulations that can and should be applied, but which may vary from country to country. Below, all the above methods of sterilization, more or less common in the beauty industry, are considered in detail.
AIR STERILIZER
Air sterilizer - "a device for sterilization with dry hot air, which provides sterilization at high temperatures under pressure" (from order No. 552 of the Ministry of Health of Ukraine dated 11.08.2014). Usually this is the so-called. dry heat sterilizer or cabinet.
Different models are sold both in performance and characteristics, and in cost. The price often starts from $ 30 for a very budget segment. As for the cost - here, as in all other cases below, it must be taken into account that the price of a sterilizer usually reflects the labor spent on its manufacture, materials and technologies. Therefore, the author of the article believes that his reader understands the moment that sterilizers conditionally for $10 and $300 (or more than $$$) are two big differences not only in operation and capabilities, but also in technical characteristics, maintenance, etc. .... But back to air sterilizers.
It works simply and clearly - a previously cleaned, disinfected and dry tool is placed in an already heated dry-heat chamber. Of course, it is necessary to follow simple recommendations. Safe sterilization regimens here are usually standard: 60 minutes at 180° or 150 minutes at 160°. Processing in an air sterilizer is recommended for metal, glass and rubber-based products.
The disadvantages include the fact that plastic objects cannot be processed in it, and (what is there to hide here) the dry heat is not too supportive of a metal tool.
Above, I mentioned that the tool is placed in an already heated dry heat. Usually this takes about 10-20 minutes - i.e. if you put the instrument in a cold chamber, the sterilization cycle will increase by this time. Approximately the same amount of time will be required for the cooling of a hot tool. If you add up all the numbers, it turns out that the full sterilization cycle will be at least 80 minutes at a temperature of 180 °. Is it a lot or a little? It depends on the organization of the workflow.
When choosing a dry heat sterilizer, pay attention to the size of the sterilization chamber - it can range from 1.5 to 10 or more liters. Smaller sterilizers are more compact, but the number of instrument sets they can accommodate is limited by the size of their chambers. The function of automatic maintenance of a fixed temperature in the sterilization chamber, which is available in higher class air sterilizers, will not be superfluous.
Unlike diamond, a tool made of cubic boron nitride requires a more responsible choice for each individual operation. For example, different CBN composites are used for fine and finish machining without shock loads of steels with a hardness of 55-70 HRC, cast irons and hard alloys, for semi-finishing and finishing, fine machining of steels up to 58 HRC, cast irons and hard alloys with possible shock loads.
Despite the difference in the composites used, boron nitride cutting tools are sold under different brand names in different countries. So, in Ukraine it is cubonite and elbor, in Russia - elbor, in the USA - borazon, in Japan and China - CBN. Below are photos honestly peeped on the website of the Chinese CBN manufacturer FUNIK, which has been producing cubic boron nitride since 1991 for the production of grinding wheels, abrasive belts and whetstones:
3. CDN-850. These black crystals are of medium hardness and withstand high temperatures well. The form is different from the previous ones. The edges are not as sharp, thanks to which the elbor crystals of this grade have a good balance between destruction, performance and high service life of grinding materials. Mainly used with ceramic bonded instruments.
4. CDN-880. The same as the previous brand. The only difference is that here it can be used for ceramic or polymer bonded instruments.
7. CDN-980. These elbor crystals are dark brown in color, irregularly shaped, high hardness, extremely sharp edges, can work at high temperatures in high-strength polymer bonded, metal or ceramic bonded tools.
Earlier in the Sharpening Blog, an article was published in which an attempt was made to compare the work of CBN and diamond whetstones with synthetic and natural whetstones. There is not so boring and more information about elbors and their application - lament, it's interesting.
P.S. The article used photos of the site www.cbnmaterial.com.
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ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
http://www.site/
If you think that the photo in front of you has been edited, try out the methods given - from simple to complex.
Please note that there is no universal method to distinguish a photomontage from a real shot. An experienced photoshopper can bypass any method and make the fake incredibly realistic. In addition, phototoads often catch your eye after they have been saved and trimmed many times, and it is much more difficult to recognize the deception in such a picture.
Pay attention to the following points.
1. Unrealistic picture
The most rude fakes can be distinguished without any tools - enough observation. Just look at the picture as a whole. If there is a group of people on it, count how many arms and legs they have, and make sure that all limbs have owners.
The ladies on the right and in the center have something with their hands, the limbs literally disappear. But the happy father on the left hand, on the contrary, is a bit too much
Estimate the proportions of the bodies and heads of people in the photo: often inexperienced photogills insert other people's faces into pictures too inaccurately.
2. Deformed background
When a beginner photoshopper changes the shape and size of an object in a photo, the distortion can affect the background as well. For example, some men in the photo increase theirs, and women increase their breasts and hips.
Inflated muscles distort the very space around them However, if there are straight lines, walls, doorways next to the variable object, then they are also often deformed. And it immediately catches the eye. For example, here is a whole gallery of photos of such athletes: these guys are really scary.
3. No pores and wrinkles on the face
Skin before and after treatment Even the most perfect skin, upon closer examination, is not at all smooth: it has wrinkles, moles, pores and spots. Therefore, if the face in the photo resembles the muzzle of a porcelain doll or a model from a video game, you have a montage in front of you.
4. Traces of cloning in the picture
Two identical clouds on the poster of the TV series Lost The easiest way to remove something from an image is to use the Stamp function in Photoshop or some other image editor. The tool copies parts of the photo that are close to the processed area and uses them to cover up unwanted objects.
Inept photoshoppers abuse this feature, as a result of which exactly the same pieces appear in the picture, conspicuous.
5. Problems with shadows and lights
A girl in a yellow skirt, Chinese officials and a colorful African. There's something wrong with their shadows Pay attention to light and shadows. Make sure all objects are casting shadows, and in the right direction. See if there are, on the contrary, ownerless shadows in the picture. And if there are any, it means that some object was removed from the picture, but the retoucher forgot about the shadow.
Also check the light. If two people or objects in the photo are lit differently, as if each has its own light source, then the picture has been edited.
Look for the original picture
Just upload an image to a search engine and try to find similar images. If your image is photoshopped, chances are you'll be able to spot the original and see exactly what's been retouched.
In addition, it is useful to look at the dates the image appeared on the Web - this can also be found using search engines. If you see a picture supposedly from a place, but there are identical photos dated last month, it is obvious that they are trying to deceive you.
You can use Google, Yandex or a specialized search engine TinEye. And it is better to look both there and there - for reliability.
This is a very simple, although not the most reliable way. Open your image's EXIF metadata and view it. You can do this in the file's properties by right-clicking on it in Windows Explorer or Finder on macOS.
If you're lucky, you'll be able to see the camera model, the date the image was taken, and the date the image was edited. There is a little more confidence in images that have fields filled with the camera model and the time of shooting.
When an image is adjusted in Photoshop or another editor, the application can store information about its version and the operating system on which it was running in the image metadata.
True, in this way you can only catch an inexperienced retoucher, because EXIF data is easy to edit. In addition, if the photographer simply tweaked the brightness, colors and contrast, but did not change anything else, the metadata will still indicate that the image was photoshopped.
Make color correction
Some fakes are not made so roughly that you can recognize them with the naked eye. And in this case, any graphic editor or image viewer that allows you to color correct will come to your aid.
The plane was obviously added already during photo processing On Windows, you can use FastStone Image Viewer to explore photos. Open an image in it and click Colors → Color Correction.
On macOS, the built-in Preview. Click "Tools" → "Adjust Color...".
Play with the sliders and you may notice some details in the photo that are not immediately apparent.
- Turn up the brightness and contrast. Dark areas will become brighter and bright areas darker. This will allow you to see artifacts and gluing in the photo.
- Increase the saturation level. So you can also see the gluing borders in the photo next to the objects added using the montage.
- Sharpen up. You may find what you were trying to hide with the Blur tool in the blurry areas.
- Pay colors. In FastStone Image Viewer, click Colors→Negative. In the macOS Preview, use the "Tools" → "Adjust Color..." function and drag the sliders on the histogram so that the right one is on the left and the left one is on the right. Inverting the colors in an image will help you see smeared areas against a plain background.
Analyze the noise in the photo
This is a more complex method. It is unlikely that a beginner will be able to recognize from the first time what is wrong in the noise in the picture, but it is worth a try.
Due to the imperfection of photographic equipment, real photographs always have a rather high noise level. Graphic editors practically do not create it. Thus, by examining the noise in the image, you can identify the inserted object.
To do this, use the Forensically online tool. Open it, upload the desired image, and then select the Noise Analysis tab on the right. You can move the sliders back and forth to change the sensitivity. Alien objects will stand out against the general background.
But keep in mind that this method can also be deceived. So, if Photoshop manually adds noise to a fake, it will be much more difficult to distinguish extraneous elements.
Analyze the error rate
Error Level Analysis, that is, error level analysis, is a method that allows you to detect artifacts when superimposing one image on another. Looking at the image through the ELA filter, you will see that the corrected areas appear whiter than the rest. If the photo has not been edited, then it looks uniform: not a single area will be darker or lighter.
Forensically supports this method as well. To examine a suspicious image through the ELA filter, upload it to the service and select the Error Level Analysis item on the right.
However, if the photo has been resaved many times or its size has been changed, then the traces of editing will be blurred and ELA will not help to find them.
First, let's take a photo. You can download from the Internet by scoring in the search: “photos with photoshop”. Save it and let's get started!!!
2 step
So we're taking a close look at it. On the image of a non-professional (Photoshop experience 1 week -1 month), you can notice irregularities, for example, when you insert someone or something into the photo, it will be noticeable that the edges of this part will be noticeable, sometimes even without magnification.
3 step
What to do if a professional works? To do this, you need to enlarge the image, the more the better. Look, you'll never notice bad edges or anything like that. Here you need to rely on the difference in color, take a closer look, and you will notice (at high magnification) that the colors change dramatically, that is, for example, there is a red color, and then its shade comes, even if slightly different from the main color, believe me, it will be noticeable.
4 step
We move on. With the text, everything is different, it is very, very difficult to determine the real text in the photo or the inserted one, but still possible, again, we increase it so that the quality remains, that is, not squares, and look at the evenness of the text. Attention! this does not give a guarantee, the inscription may fall under evenness. There is another method for this, look at the shadow, the light that falls on the text. Some in Photoshop reduce the opacity, look, it will also be visible!
Today we are faced with a lot of fake news and fake photos. How to determine where the real photos are and where the photoshop is.
Today, we all have to deal with a lot of rumors, fake news and fake photos - professional media are often themselves involved in their distribution, inadvertently misleading readers. This article contains 13 services that will help you install Photoshop or not, and find the author of the photo.
The Internet, on the one hand, increases the amount of false information (first of all, we are talking about data taken from social networks), and on the other hand, it provides many digital tools for verifying it.
With the help of several online tools, you can check the authenticity of photos, "pull" as much data from them as possible and find more information about a person.
13 Image Authentication Services
Findexif.com- a free service where you can upload a photo or give a link to it - it will determine the EXIF data (information, when the photo was taken, by what device, image parameters, for some photos you can determine the shooting location).
Foto Forensics- a website that can do error level analysis (ELA), that is, find areas "finished" on the image or inserted into it during editing. After processing, the program produces a photo where the edited fragments will stand out from the background of others. In addition, the program will also provide the EXIF data of the photo.
Nobody can be trusted these days. Even if the most convincing photographs are offered as confirmation. Most recently, we told you how, with the help of simple tricks, you can increase the length of your legs or reduce your waist. And when Photoshop intervenes in the matter, then anything can be depicted in the picture. Therefore, everything needs to be checked, literally everything. And how to do it, you will learn from this article.
By the way, for one thing, I want to advise you to purchase the Canon MP250 multifunctional device - this is a high-quality and reliable device for any printing tasks. Which can not only print, but also make copies, scan. It will come in handy anywhere: at home and in the office, for amateur photographers who print a lot of pictures and for users who work more often with texts.
visual inspection
Today, photo editors are used everywhere for image processing, whether it's amateur shots from your mobile phone or high-quality fashion magazine illustrations. But it’s one thing when software tools are used to adjust lighting, brightness or contrast and correct small errors, and it’s quite another thing when new objects are inserted into a photo, the background changes completely, the shape and location of the main objects are corrected. Here, in fact, we can already talk about creating a fake photo.
However, even the most skilled photo artists are not always able to deceive nature. Very often, focusing on one aspect, such as reducing the model's waist, they completely lose sight of other details and forget to add a hand or wipe excess folds on the dress. Judging by how many of these blunders get into print, even in very respected and fashionable publications, such gaffes are ubiquitous. Therefore, the first step in analyzing the reliability of the image should be abstracted from its artistic features and the beauty of the model and focus on small secondary details.
- Count how many arms and legs are in the picture. Do they all have their own owners? Is it possible in real life to take a similar pose without dislocating the limbs?
- Pay attention to the hair and the objects around it. For novice forgers, this is a rather difficult object, so here you can find a lot of interesting things.
- Assess the size and shape of the objects in the photo. Often a change in the shape of one object or person leads to violations of the proportions of other parts, which, although not conspicuous, are noticeable upon close examination. For example, in the photo below, due to editing the girl's figure, the line on the wall also became slightly crooked.
Pay close attention to the shadows. This is a stumbling block even for experienced editors, because it is very difficult to restore the natural play of light and shadow. Here it is necessary to show special care, since sometimes nature throws us completely implausible pictures, which, however, have not been subjected to any processing. For example, the famous photo from the Moon with the "missing" shadow from the flag.
Software
In addition to a sharp eye and common sense, there are other ways to study the authenticity of photographs. Below you will find several web applications that will help you get additional data about a photo and, based on this, judge its authenticity.
Retrieves all metadata stored in a snapshot. You can find out when the photo was taken, under what conditions, on which camera. In some cases, you can find out the location of the shooting.
A very useful site that can indirectly determine which objects in the picture have been added or edited. It works on the Error level analysis (ELA) technology, which gives quite convincing results.
This service analyzes the image you uploaded according to a variety of parameters, including in terms of the reliability of metadata, the presence of traces of light correction, the correspondence of artifacts in different parts of the image, and so on - a total of six tests. As a result, a certificate of authenticity of the image is issued, which determines the degree of its originality.
A specialized site that deals with reverse image search. That is, it finds all pictures that are exactly the same or very similar to the one you uploaded. This way you can determine whether the image under study is original or made by another author and under different circumstances. No less useful in this sense is the image search from Google.
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