Can't figure out why your shots aren't sharp enough? Somehow you heard that people talk about “fixes”, but you don’t understand what is in them at all? This article will help you learn all about prime lenses and how they compare to zoom lenses. Also, you'll learn several techniques for producing amazingly sharp, crisp photos.

1. Zoom Zoom Zoom

When my passion for photography was just beginning, I was a fan of zoom-zoom-zoom. Everyone had such a lens, and it was believed that this is what any photographer should have. I studied filmmaking and all I've heard about getting an image best view- zoom out and zoom in. I took photography classes for many years and thought I already knew everything there was to know about the subject.

When I first discovered the concept of a 50mm prime lens, my world was turned upside down. I did not understand how I was holding myself back and what opportunities I was missing. I've been surfing the internet doing research and looking for inspiration and wondered why everyone else's photos look sharper.

2. Getting to know the 50 mm fix

I thought that good composition and good lighting were the key to success, but my shots still fell short of the work of other photographers. One day, my friend and I were talking about photographic techniques, and she said that a fix must be in the arsenal of a photographer. She herself acquired a 50mm fix with a maximum aperture of 1.8, and could not get enough of it.

I was quite skeptical when I first heard this, but decided to try it myself. The next day I called her and said: "I want to borrow your fifty dollars and see if it is worthy of your praise." I rolled it up on my camera and for the next few hours I was just looking for something else to photograph in my room. It was amazing. I could shoot the most unusual things, and the picture still looked cute and sharp. My eyes were open to all possibilities.

And how much more light passed into the camera at f1.8. My roommate was asleep, so I couldn't turn on any lights, but I found that even with the faint light filtering through the window, the images came out outstanding.

3. Fix vs. Zoom

Most people today are afraid of the word "fix", which means that the lens is made with a specific focal length that cannot be changed and zoomed. We are too accustomed to working with a zoom lens.

Yes, a zoom lens is more versatile when you're trying to capture a reportage shot. It can be quickly adjusted to different focal lengths for quick shooting of several compositions, but this has its drawbacks. Some disadvantages of using a zoom lens:

• Lack of sharpness
• Difficulties in getting shallow depth of field
• In low light conditions, it is almost impossible to shoot without sacrificing image quality by increasing the ISO

4. Pricing for Fast Lenses

For shooting indoors and late at night, you will need a "fast lens". “Fast” in this case refers to the maximum aperture that your lens is capable of (the wider the aperture, the more light the lens will let through). Fast lenses give you a huge advantage when you need to shoot at fast shutter speeds in low light. For a high-quality zoom lens with a good aperture, you will pay about 2 thousand dollars (for Nikon 24-70mm f / 2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor Wide Angle Zoom Lens), or a little more than 24 hundred dollars (for Nikon 70-200mm f / 2.8G ED VR II AF-S NIKKOR Lens).

These zooms will be a little more useful in low light than your standard zoom, which usually only opens up to 3.5-5.6 because they have a maximum aperture of 2.8.

Compare prices for a fast zoom lens and a fast prime lens. The Nikon 50mm f/1.4G SIC SW Prime Nikkor Lens fix can be found for a little over $500, or you can get the Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for almost $100!

The price difference is amazing. While great zoom lenses have been produced in the last decade thanks to new technology, it would be a shame not to have a prime on hand when you need it. Especially if you can get one for much less than a fast zoom lens.

5. Better sharpness and depth of field

You really don't understand what a truly sharp image is until you shoot a prime shot. The way zoom lenses are made (more moving parts) results in them having more wobble or room for wobble.

Primes, on the other hand, are set to a specific focal length (there are no moving parts other than the focus ring) and can afford the luxury of a wide aperture. By having a large aperture, you get a double benefit. Firstly, you will be able to capture more light without sacrificing shutter speed, and secondly, a wider aperture means a shallower depth of field, which will allow you to isolate your subject from the background.

6. ISO and sharpness

ISO refers to the sensitivity of a film or sensor to light. Many people may not be aware that ISO plays a big role in image sharpness.

At low ISOs (slow film) we get a nice clear and sharp picture, but this requires more light. On the other hand, high ISOs (fast film) are more sensitive to light. They don't need as much light, but you pay the price with "grainy" photos.

Today, DSLRs have taken a huge step forward in regards to frame noise, although it's still hard to argue against the benefits of shooting at low ISOs. Below are two shots taken at different ISOs. The first is at 200 ISO with aperture 1.8, and the second is at 3200 ISO with aperture 1.8.

As you can see from these shots, there is a significant loss in quality when shooting at high ISOs. With fixes, the need to use them arises less often, and, again, this contributes to obtaining sharper and higher quality frames.

7. What Works Against You

People sometimes forget that having good equipment does not guarantee good pictures. Of course, the better the technique, the easier it is usually to make decent shots - but sometimes that's not the point. Understanding why your hardware works the way it does is much more important. Here are some tips for getting sharp, well-focused photos:

1. Use a fast enough shutter speed to reduce motion blur.
2. Lean your arm against something stable, such as a wall or a tree. If that doesn't help, press your elbow to your side.
3. Hold your breath while taking the picture.
4. Use the burst shooting feature to increase your chances of getting one perfect shot.
5. Use a sandbag or a special pillow filled with polystyrene as a support for the camera.
6. If convenient, use a tripod to give the camera absolute stability.
7. Use a cable to avoid shaking the camera while the shutter is being released.
8. If you're using a tripod, turn off VR or IS (Nikon and Canon's designation for stabilizer, respectively).

8. Conclusion

AT general case primes are sharper than zooms, have better bokeh (the way the lens blurs out-of-focus areas), and allow you to work at wider apertures. I also appreciate the fact that I know exactly how the lens will behave, so I can plan something depending on this.

While zoom lenses are more versatile, I prefer prime lenses, which make me pay more attention to every shot.

Naturally, every lens in your arsenal is designed for a different purpose. Understand what you need and what type of lens is right for your job, and get the best quality copy you can afford. I love my 50mm prime so much that I haven't taken it off since I got it on camera.

I have spoken to many photographers and they have come to the same conclusion; the fix should be in the photographer's bag. They're inexpensive, produce clean, sharp photos, and work great in low light without having to resort to high ISOs.

The Nikor 50mm f/1.8 AF-S is a must-have lens for all photographers, from the very best amateurs and beginners to professional photographers with a mountain of experience behind them.

There is no need to talk much about the lens, it is just cool - sharp, small and light, the dream of any photographer:

And that is not all. The lens is remarkable in that it is suitable for all Nikon DSLRs, whether it is in the camera or not, the lens works great on all cameras, even despite the .

And the most interesting thing is the price. The lens costs only $250, while the quality and sharpness is no worse than the $1700 Nikon 24-70 f/2.8.

Should I change my 50mm f/1.8D to a new one?

Definitely not. costs half as much, while being identical to the new lens. Paying more than $100 for one that will run a little faster on your camera simply doesn't make any sense.

Is it worth paying extra for 50mm f/1.4 D/G?

I would not. But each of us knows who he is and what he wants. If f/1.4 is the ultimate dream for you, well, the answer is obvious. But you must understand that with this you will photograph “once in a million”, because. f/1.4 is measured in millimeters.

If you want a really cool, super mega sharp 50mm prime and you're using a camera that doesn't have ( / /D60/D3000/

Mixture universal M-150 FIX- this is a universal material that allows you to carry out finishing work inside and outside the room. Moreover, it should be noted that this material has universal properties due to its unique composition. Due to this, building materials are used in the process of concreting foundations, sealing joints, etc.

Application of M-150 FIX

Universal Composition M-150 FIX includes: dry sand, Portland cement, additional mineral and organic substances that have a positive effect on improving the technical characteristics of the dry mix.

Now, with regard to the scope of use of this material, the mixture is used when concreting bases, if necessary, sealing joints, which are often formed in horizontal concrete-type surfaces. Versatility this product come down to the fact that it can be used to work with building blocks, bricks and even paving slabs.

M-150 FIX 50 kg universal can be stored for about six months, from the date of production indicated on the packaging of the mixture, it is important to store in a dry place if the packaging is damaged.

An important point is the preparation of the surface before applying the ready consistency. To do this, clean the working area as much as possible from dirt, dust, foreign microparticles, which adversely affect the degree of adhesion. Moreover, if the surface tends to absorb moisture, it must be primed.

In the process of preparing the mixture, only clean containers and tools are used, the same applies to water. It is recommended to carefully adhere to the established percentages of dry mix and water, so as not to impair the technical properties of M-150 FIX.

Remember that you need to use the resulting universal solution for 45 minutes, during its time you should stir the consistency. A plaster mesh is used if you have to work with a layer thickness of thirty millimeters or more. Or, the mixture will be used for external finishing work. Drying time is about three days.

Advantages of M-150 FIX

• Affordable cost of a universal mixture.
• The elasticity of the material allows you to speed up the allotted time for finishing work.
• Versatility.
• Ease of use and simple cooking method.
• Relatively short periods for complete drying, while this factor depends on the thickness of the layer and the temperature inside or outside the room.
• Economic consumption M-150 FIX.

The Nikor 50mm f/1.8 AF-S is a must-have lens for all photographers, from the very best amateurs and beginners to professional photographers with a mountain of experience behind them.

There is no need to talk much about the lens, it is just cool - sharp, small and light, the dream of any photographer:

And that is not all. The lens is remarkable in that it is suitable for all Nikon DSLRs, whether it is in the camera or not, the lens works great on all cameras, even despite the .

And the most interesting thing is the price. The lens costs only $250, while the quality and sharpness is no worse than the $1700 Nikon 24-70 f/2.8.

Should I change my 50mm f/1.8D to a new one?

Definitely not. costs half as much, while being identical to the new lens. Paying more than $100 for one that will run a little faster on your camera simply doesn't make any sense.

Is it worth paying extra for 50mm f/1.4 D/G?

I would not. But each of us knows who he is and what he wants. If f/1.4 is the ultimate dream for you, well, the answer is obvious. But you must understand that with this you will photograph “once in a million”, because. f/1.4 is measured in millimeters.

If you want a really cool, super mega sharp 50mm prime and you're using a camera that doesn't have ( / /D60/D3000/

Zoom lenses are good for their convenience and versatility. In the first part of the article - “Which lens should I buy to replace the whale one? Choosing a zoom” - we analyzed the advantages of zoom lenses, found out their disadvantages and cited as an example some models that should be considered as a replacement for “whale” optics. Now let's talk about lenses with a fixed focal length. There are many situations in the life of a photographer in which a prime - a lens with a fixed focal length - will be preferable to a zoom.

What are the advantages of a fixed lens?

Like it or not, but even an inexpensive lens with a fixed focal length is not inferior in image quality to the most expensive zoom. Quality here means not only equally high sharpness across the entire field of the frame and at all apertures, but also the amount of distortion, vignetting and other aberrations. Among other things, prime lenses are lighter, smaller and faster. The latter is not an empty phrase at all. For example, a standard kit lens at a focal length of 50 mm has an aperture of f / 5.6. At the same time, any fix "fifty kopecks" has an aperture ratio of f / 1.8 and above. That's over three levels of exposure! To make it clearer: where the whale lens will require ISO 3200, such a fix will allow you to shoot at a sensitivity below 400 units.

Canon EOS 6D / Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L SETTINGS: ISO 2500, F1.4, 1/30s

Another advantage of a large aperture is a shallower depth of field. With a smaller area of ​​focus, you can create more emotional and interesting photos by focusing on one of the plans and beautifully blurring the rest. The use of a prime lens promotes creativity in photography, as it not only limits the choice of subjects, but also forces you to think more about the placement of accents in the frame.

Which prime lens to choose?

In choosing a lens with a fixed focal length, you can really break your head. In the range from 18 to 55 mm alone, there can be at least six of them! What lens to choose? In recent film times, most cameras were equipped with fixed lenses with a focal length of 50 mm or, as it is also called, fifty dollars. This focal length is considered “normal” (that is, providing a viewing angle approximately equal to the field of view of the human eye), and often more experienced photographers recommend buying it in addition to the standard zoom. There is a fair amount of truth in this.

Classic "fifty kopecks"

Initially, they were universal focal lengths for full frame, and in film times, most interchangeable lens cameras were equipped with just such optics. Inexpensive 50mm prime lenses include Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II , Sony 50mm f/1.8 (SAL-50F18) , Sony 50mm f/1.8 OSS (SEL-50F18) , Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S Nikkor , . They are united by the fact that they are all designed according to the "classic" schemes for such lenses, they are simple and optically magnificent.

But on a crop sensor (namely, APS-C or even 4/3 ” format sensors are installed in most amateur cameras), they turn into moderate telephoto lenses with an equivalent focal length of 75 to 90 mm due to the crop factor. This is the ideal focal length for medium to moderate portraiture. close-up. Here, the pleasant blurring of the background, which such lenses provide, also comes to the aid of the photographer. So on a crop sensor, a 50mm lens is an almost perfect portrait lens.

Canon EOS 6D / Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L SETTINGS: ISO 100, F1.2, 1/80s

For owners of an incomplete frame, before buying a 50 mm lens, we recommend that you first try this focal length on existing optics. Set the focal length on the whale lens to 50 mm and evaluate the viewing angle, shoot like that for a day or two. If you do not experience discomfort, then you can safely take one of the inexpensive fifty dollars for your system, you will not regret it. In the event that such a focal length limits you, you should probably look towards 35mm lenses. On amateur DSLRs and mirrorless cameras with an APS-C matrix, such lenses will be “normal”, that is, they provide an angle of view approximately equal to that of the human eye.

"Normal" lenses for crop cameras

X-T1 / XF23mmF1.4 R SETTINGS: ISO 200, F8, 1/420s, 35.0mm equiv.

Wide angle lenses

Wide angle lenses are another group of prime lenses. Among the brightest representatives of this family, I would like to note: Canon EF 20mm f / 2.8 USM , Nikon 20mm f / 1.8G ED AF-S Nikkor , Fujifilm XF 14mm f / 2.8 R , Sony 16mm f / 2.8 E (SEL-16F28) , Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 Aspherical .

The undoubted advantage of wide-angle optics is its ability to transmit dynamics on a plane. Thanks to the better exposure, it is quite easy to get expressive shots, and playing with the point of view only enhances this effect. These lenses are perfect for landscapes, architecture, sports, and of course, for those who like to photograph themselves against the background of sights.

X-T1 / XF14mmF2.8 R SETTINGS: ISO 200, F11, 4 s, 21.0 mm equiv.

Portrait lenses

Speaking of prime lenses, one cannot fail to mention the classic portrait optics. It includes inexpensive ones. They are all united by a high aperture ratio, which was created not so much for shooting in low light, but for creating a beautiful background blur effect - bokeh. Another characteristic feature of portrait optics is the relatively long focal length (real or equivalent). It allows you to convey the features of the face and body without optical distortion, and the optical schemes of these lenses are designed in such a way that the skin looks natural, smoother at an open aperture.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III / Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L II SETTINGS: ISO 100, F1.8, 1/2500 s

The hardest thing with prime lenses is finding "your" focal length.

You can hear a lot of arguments both for and against this or that focal point. All of them must be listened to, but it is worth making a decision only on the basis of your own considerations. Moderately wide angle of 35mm at full frame for a long time considered a kind of starting point for photographers. This focal length has gained popularity due to the fact that it allows you to capture events and people in their Everyday life in terms of the golden mean. If you have a regular zoom, then you just need to practice. Just set it to 28mm for a crop sensor or 35mm for a full frame and forget you have zoom. Over time, you may have a desire to make the corner wider or, conversely, narrower. Thus, you can choose the best prime lens for your purposes. The second way, which can also help determine your preferences, is to collect data from your own photos using analyzer programs. They collect information from EXIF ​​image files and display it in the form of graphs. Here you will be able to see the focal length you use most often.

On this, perhaps, it is worth finishing. The world of fixed distance lenses is very rich, but you don't have to have the whole set to dive into it. It is enough to own at least one prime lens. You can listen to the advice of experienced people and choose a "fifty kopeck" or trust your inner voice and start looking at the world from a wider angle. Whatever your choice, a fixed lens will become an indispensable tool that will change the way you look at the world and photography in general.