Adapter adapter M42 - Canon EOS, no chip (no chip)
Suitable for EF and EF-S mount

New. In the original packaging - bag. Made of solid aluminum alloy, with a black finish.

There are two types of adapters available:
1 - with a flange - stop for the lens diaphragm pusher.
This is the most versatile adapter. Suitable for any lens with M42 thread. If you are in doubt about which adapter you need, then this one will fit exactly.
2 - without flange - diaphragm pusher stop.
This adapter is perfect for a lens without a jumping aperture.
This adapter is also suitable for lenses with a jumping aperture and a switch for its operation "A - M" "automatic - manual". You can first set the aperture for shooting in the position of the switch on the lens "A". Focus on the open. Then use the switch on the lens to select "M", instantly switching to the pre-selected aperture value.
This adapter is not desirable for lenses with a jumping aperture but not having a switch for its operation.

The lens is not installed exactly (the lens scale is obtained somewhere on the side), but it is reliable. Works good.
The M42 to Canon adapter allows lenses with M42 threads to be mounted on Canon EOS cameras while maintaining focus at infinity.

Compatible with all Canon cameras

Price: 295 rubles.
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Also there are:

Adapter adapter M42-Canon EOS with AF chip (AF autofocus).

New. High Quality. No flaws. Packed in a box. Made from durable aluminum alloy with a black finish. With a flange - an emphasis for a pusher of a diaphragm.
A chip (microcircuit) is installed in the adapter ring (adapter) to confirm focus. The camera confirms focusing (beeps, the dot in the viewfinder flashes).
The M42-Canon adapter allows you to install lenses with an M42 thread (almost all Soviet and many imported ones) on modern digital cameras Canon EOS, with focus confirmation. Keeping focus at infinity.

Compatible with almost all Canon cameras

Price: 700 rubles.
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M42-Canon EOS adapter with AF EMF chip (autofocus, programmable).

New. High Quality. No flaws. In the box. Made from durable aluminum alloy with a black finish. With a flange - an emphasis for a pusher of a diaphragm.
The adapter contains a programmable EMF chip (dandelion-type microcircuit), into which it is possible to write down the real parameters of your lens (focal length, aperture) and data for focus correction on your own (instruction is attached).
The adapter allows you to install lenses with M42 thread on modern Canon EOS digital cameras, with focus confirmation. Keeping focus at infinity

Compatible with many Canon cameras

Price: 1400 rubles.
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Adapter ring M39 - M42

Metal adapter adapter from M39 thread to M42 mm
New. good quality.

Price: 200 rubles.
===

Additional cover for the adapter 100 rubles.

Programming and setting up the Canon M42 - EOS adapter with a programmable chip.

It is recommended to use the programmable chip adapter on only one lens. Practice shows that it is much more convenient and more functional to equip each manual (old manual lens with M42 thread) adapter with a programmable chip and adjust the adapter to the parameters of this lens than to twist the adapter to another lens each time. This is due to the fact that the programmable chip allows you to very accurately adjust the focus confirmation point, as well as the aperture value and focal length for a specific lens. If you attach an already programmed adapter to another lens, the accuracy of the focus confirmation may be impaired, and the aperture and focal length values ​​may not correspond to reality.

Attention! It can only be programmed and configuredprogrammable chip!

The programmable adapter has more contacts.

What allows you to make an M42-EOS adapter with a programmable chip:
1. install a lens with an M42 thread (Zenith, Praktica, Pentax, Carl Zeiss, Mayer, and many other brands) on Canon cameras with an EF and EF-S mount (EOS system);
2. set the focal length of this lens (from 1mm to 65535mm);
3. set the minimum aperture value (aperture) for this lens;
4. set the accuracy of focus confirmation;
5. the chip saves the last settings;
6. data on the aperture and FR will be registered in the EXIF ​​of the photo;
7. work in M ​​and Av mode;
8. Compatible with all Canon, including5D mark III, 6D, 650D, etc.

The focal length of the lens and the minimum aperture value (aperture) recorded in the programmable chip will be recorded in the EXIF ​​photo. These parameters DO NOT AFFECT focus confirmation! They should be set only so that in the future you can determine which lens the picture was taken with. Aperture values ​​from 1.1 to 2.0, stored in the chip, can affect exposure metering. Therefore, it is desirable to prescribe the minimum aperture value (aperture) of a particular lens into the chip.

The most important and useful feature of the programmable chip is the ability to fine-tune focus confirmation (alignment). Precisely tuned to a particular lens, the chip allows you to accurately and quickly manually focus on any focusing point on your camera's viewfinder.

Focus confirmation will work on all EOS cameras when the shutter button is pressed halfway. In other words, you can use any lens with an M42 thread on a Canon camera as an autofocus lens set to MF mode. In this case, you will have to focus and close the aperture manually, however, when the object comes into focus, the camera will confirm the focus with a sound signal and the focus signal will light up (green circle in the viewfinder). This means that the subject in the selected focus point of the viewfinder is in focus - and you can shoot!

One important nuance: If the actual aperture of your lens is less than 8, focus confirmation will not work. It's connected with technical features camera focusing principle.

Canon M42 Programming Instructions.

Writing information to a chip comes down to four simple operations:

1. entering the chip into the programming mode;
2. selection of the desired programming parameter;
3. data entry;
4. Exit programming mode.

To program the chip, you will need the adapter itself with a programmable chip, an M42 lens, as well as a Canon EOS system camera. No additional tools are required.

First of all, turn on your camera! =)

Make sure your camera is set to 1/3 EV. It is important!
Set your camera to M mode and set your shutter speed to no slower than 1/60.
Do not use burst mode! Use only time-lapse photography.
Install the adapter on the lens and attach to the camera.
Now you can start programming the chip.

HOW TO ENTER VALUES

Entering information into the chip is reduced to entering some numbers. Each entered number corresponds to a specific aperture value:

f/2.0 - 0
f/2.2-1
f/2.5-2
f/2.8-3
f/3.2 - 4
f/3.5 - 5
f/4.0-6
f/4.5 - 7
f/5.0-8
f/5.6 - 9
to enter the desired number - you must press the shutter button

The chip has 3 setting modes:

0 - input lens aperture
1 - enter the focal length of the lens
2 - input of the focus correction (adjustment).

1. To enter programming mode:

1. set the aperture to f64 with the camera (wheel) - press the shutter button
2. set (wheel) aperture f57 - press the shutter button
3. set (wheel) aperture F64 - press the shutter button.
Now the adapter has switched to programming mode - you can proceed to select the desired operation.

2. To select the appropriate operation, enter:
f / 2.0 (corresponding to the number 0) - to enter aperture - and press the shutter button;
f / 2.2 (corresponding to the number 1) - to enter the focal length - and press the shutter button;
f/2.5 (corresponding to the number 2) - to correct the focus - and press the shutter button.

3. Now that you have put the adapter in the selected mode, you can enter data.

To set min. lens aperture value (aperture), select the appropriate aperture. When selected, press the shutter button.
To enter the focal length - enter 5 numbers from 1 to 65535 (for example, if you have a 135 mm lens, you must enter: 00135; this is done like this: f / 2.0 + shutter release, f / 2.0 + shutter release, f / 2.2+ shutter release, f/2.8+shutter release, f/3.5+shutter release).
To enter a focus correction, you must enter a value from 0 to 31. This value must be obtained by testing. Take test shots and adjust the focus correction based on them. You can achieve a very accurate hit. Input example: You want to enter an adjustment value of 8. To do this, enter the combination 08: f/2.0+shutter, f/5.0+shutter. If you want to enter an adjustment value, for example 15: enter f/2.2+shutter, f/3.5+shutter.

After you have put the chip in the programming mode, selected the programming parameter and entered its value, go to step 4 - exit the programming mode.

4. To exit the programming mode, set the aperture to f/57 - press the shutter, set the aperture to f/64 - press the shutter, set the aperture to f/57 - press the shutter.

Your Canon chip adapter is now programmed.


Examples:

You want to enter a lens aperture of 2.8. For this:

2. f/2.0+ shutter release (go to aperture input section);
3. f/2.8+shutter release (minimum aperture set to f/2.8);


You want to enter a lens focal length of 135mm. For this:
1. f/64+shutter release, f/57+shutter release, f/64+shutter release (put the chip in programming mode);
2. f/2.2+ shutter release (go to the focal length input section);
3. enter 00135: f/2.0+shutter release, f/2.0+shutter release, f/2.2+shutter release, f/2.8+shutter release, f/3.5+shutter release (the lens focal length of 135mm was entered into the chip);
4. f/57+shutter release, f/64+shutter release, f/57+shutter release (get the chip out of programming mode, it remembers the entered data).

You want to enter a focus adjustment equal to 9. To do this:
1. f/64+shutter release, f/57+shutter release, f/64+shutter release (put the chip in programming mode);
2. f / 2.5+ shutter release (go to the section for entering focus correction);
3. enter 09: f / 2.0 + shutter release, f / 5.6 + shutter release (enter focus correction equal to 9);
4. f/57+shutter release, f/64+shutter release, f/57+shutter release (get the chip out of programming mode, it remembers the entered data).
5. Check the accuracy of focus confirmation with test shots. If necessary, repeat the programming of this parameter.

This completes the programming of the chip. If necessary, the chip can be reprogrammed an unlimited number of times. The programming procedure takes from 5 to 30 minutes.

By default, the chip says: 50mm F/1.4, please change the parameters according to your lens specification.

If during programming you entered invalid values ​​for this programming mode, the chip will exit the programming mode, and the entered settings will not be saved.

Attention:

1. Do not touch the pins of the adapter chip.
2. Do not use f/64+shutter, f/57+shutter, f/64+shutter in normal shooting, this may put the chip into programming mode.


The review was prepared by the site:

On occasion, I got an old Helios 44 lens. It was already wearing an adapter for Canon cameras, but the quality of this adapter was disgusting. And the process of photographing was more like a lottery - until you open the photo on the computer, you will not know whether you are in focus or not. After reading the Internet, I realized that I just need to buy a better adapter. Otherwise, how else can you take such cool photos, of which there are a huge number on the Internet at the request of Helios 44.
There were offers offline, 100% working adapters, but the price of $ 15-20 somehow confused me very much. Therefore, our greedy um ... that is, the economical brother in this case, there is always one way - Chinese trading platforms. Well, climbed as usual en aliexpress. here on request m42-eos there were so many offers that my eyes ran wide, just have time to choose. And was chosen. At this seller. For two reasons. good rating seller and good feedback buyers-as much as 30-odd pages. Where it has been repeatedly confirmed that the chip on the adapter works as it should. Well, if it works, you should take it. I ordered two adapters - suddenly one breaks, the second will be in reserve ... (just kidding, of course, the second one is for resale, as all self-respecting hucksters do)
Sold proved to be a good serviceman, sent quickly. The adapters also reached me in just 27 days.
Came in a regular envelope. The mail didn't damage the contents (although I wouldn't be surprised if the piece of metal was broken. That's the mail).
The adapter is a threaded ring, of fairly good workmanship:




The Helios lens is a popular fifty dollars. : One of the most popular versions of the Helios-44 lens, released for the Zenit-E camera. Standard lens for Zenit-ET, Zenit-10. The lens was produced in huge quantities, so it is now available for purchase, despite the fact that its production was discontinued in the early 1990s. It has very good optical properties for a mass lens.






The adapter does not make the lens too heavy. And visually does not change its appearance. Although this is not particularly important.






On a Canon 60D camera, the lens looks like this:








Well, now about the photos themselves.
Putting the lens in, at first I didn’t hear focus confirmation (such a Chinese ... I thought), but then it turned out that I just didn’t catch the focus until the end. After I figured it out, it became convenient to use the lens. It turned out the usual manual fifty dollars. The photos are pretty interesting. In some places it is much more interesting than on my regular Sigma 17-50. Moreover, for many, the cost of such a lens often comes out only at the price of an adapter, I believe that it is quite possible to have it in a collection. The main thing is to learn how to use it correctly, which is what I am doing now.
Since I don’t have pets, I didn’t have anyone to take a picture of (my wife was not wearing makeup, the children were sleeping, there were no other victims), so I had to take a couple of shots of the watch and the bracelet as an example:






And if you like to experiment, then you can play around with their ordinary photos in lightroom a little, and you get something like this:






(I do not claim originality, etc. and the above are just photos taken as an example)
Or if you try, then this:


Conclusions: I believe that this adapter, like this lens, should definitely be tried by anyone who is at least a little fond of photography. And since now every second photographer (and of them every second wedding photographer), this adapter will come in handy for very, very many. For a penny price, you can get very interesting photos in terms of quality and performance. And once again to make sure that in Soviet times they were able to do things that, despite the fact that they were plagiarism, unlike Chinese plagiarism, manage to work for decades and please us.
Small addition:
It turned out that this adapter is NOT programmable. Which may be uncomfortable for some. For an unpretentious user like me, you can use it that way, but in order to get better quality and accuracy from the lens, you need to take a programmable adapter. In my case, the adapter is marked with letters MF- which means not programmable. A focal length of 50mm is already hammered into it from the factory.
In order for the adapter to be programmed, when buying, you need to pay attention to the presence of letters EMF.
Here is what they write about it on the Internet:

Adapter for eos without a chip. The cheapest, but not the most convenient option. It is a piece of iron without any technical bells and whistles. Ideal for video shooting, but inconvenient for photography.
Adapter m42 - Canon eos with first generation chip. The most popular adapter option. The chip carries an embedded EXIF. As a rule it is 50mm/2.0. But its main function is focus confirmation. The viewfinder has, as a rule, 9 focus points. The chip highlights these points when the focus is caught. This feature greatly simplifies the shooting process, since it is almost impossible to determine the focus “by eye”.
Adapter for eos with second generation chip. Outwardly, it does not differ in any way from the first generation adapter. It's all about his chip. This chip allows you to change the aperture from 1.4 to 4.0, which allows you to use the aperture priority mode with values ​​from 1.4 to 4.0.

EMF The eos system adapter is the most advanced version of the chip adapter, fully programmable. You can program both shutter speed and aperture. The EMF adapter is the most accurate of all adapters. It can be programmed for any lens. Aperture is programmable from F/1.1 to F/45. The focal length on the chip varies from 1 to 65535 mm. After the camera is turned off, the data is not erased, it is stored in the chip. Allows you to take photos in aperture priority mode at all aperture values. By the way, an adapter with an EMF chip is the only option for owners of Canon 650d, canon 5d mark III and newer cameras.

Unfortunately, I didn't know this. Therefore, I did not pay attention to whether it was programmable or not. But this does not mean that the adapter is bad. It is quite possible to use them main function, upon confirming the focus it performs. In the future, perhaps I will try to order an adapter with a programmable chip, but perhaps this one will suit me. I plan to buy +22 Add to favorites Liked the review +31 +52

Due to the different working lengths that are used for optics with M42 and M39 mounting threads (mirror) and for optics with a Nikon F mount, there is difficulty when using M42 / M39 optics when mounted on Nikon cameras. The difficulty lies in the fact that with such lenses it is impossible to achieve focusing on infinity at Nikon cameras.

If you use a regular M42-Nikon adapter (also called KP-42 \ N) mounted on an M42 lens, then focusing on distant objects using Nikon cameras will not work. For example, using an M42-Nikon adapter without a lens with a lens, it will be possible to focus at a maximum of 1.5 meters from the camera. To overcome this incompatibility and make working with old optics more convenient on Nikon cameras, there is a special adapter with corrective lens. The diopter power of the lens allows you to focus at infinity.

Differences between the two adapters. Left - without lens, right - with lens

Every lens in the optical design, even the ND filter on the front lens, can all negatively affect the very image quality that the lens creates. The question ‘how much does the lens affect image quality’ is quite important.

Andrey Kuryanov provided me with an adapter with a lens. My adapter not only has a corrective lens, but also .

I used this adapter for testing on 3 lenses:

This is what the adapter with a lens looks like on a Helios-44-2 2/58 lens:

I tested the image quality degradation that lenses give when using a lens adapter. During the test, I used a tripod, camera, cable release. The pictures were taken in manual camera control mode at the same shutter speeds, aperture values ​​and at the same ISO sensitivity. Focusing was carried out using Live View in the central area with maximum magnification. Three shots were taken, selected best result. Filmed in JPEG L, Fine, SD mode.

Crop, 1 to 1 (720*480), lens adapter:

Without lens:

It can be seen that the image with the lens is less sharp than the image without the lens.

Industar-50-2 with lens adapter

The same with the Industar-50-2 lens:

Without lens:

In the case of Industar-5-2, the difference is less noticeable. From this we can draw some conclusions:

• The larger the lens, the more the lens will affect the image quality.
• On closed apertures, or when using low-aperture lenses, it is difficult to distinguish the loss in quality by eye.
• The use of a lens leads to a decrease in the angle of view of the lens, roughly speaking, slightly changes the actual effective focal length.
• A corrective lens is completely useless when used with rangefinder optics. By and large, it does not change anything, and the rangefinder lens can still be focused only in macro mode, this was confirmed by the use of such a lens on the Industar-50 P lens.

By the way, buy any adapters with Lushnikov's Dandelion for Nikon, Canon, Olympus 4/3 and Dandelions without adapters from the only official representative of the inventor of Dandelion, Viktor Lushnikov in Ukraine - Andrey Kuryanov. Andrey's page on Lushnikov's website.

After buying a new camera Canon EOS 600d(why exactly, see here), I immediately realized that the whale lens (18-55 IS II) was just a piece of shit. And here you don’t even need to compare with good fast lenses, I just had enough impressions from another whale lens, but with better picture quality - Olympus m.Zuiko Digital 14-42mm. I was even a little upset when I switched from mirrorless to DSLR, I didn’t think that I would be disappointed in the quality of the lens (I generally keep quiet about the contrast method of focusing on 600d).

I quickly realized that I needed to buy an adapter for Helios 44m-6 (58 mm) lying without much work. Moreover, spring is ahead, warm days, nature, greenery!

I have already used this lens on the Olympus PEN mirrorless camera (with an M42 - M4 / 3 adapter) and it showed itself with the best side. But there was no focus confirmation and I experienced huge problems when shooting on a very sunny day (especially since PEN does not have a viewfinder and focusing is carried out exclusively on the screen). Focusing with a shallow depth of field with a focal length of 116 mm, on the beach, surrounded by sand, glare from the water and the sun at the zenith - the task is still the same!

I decided not to pervert like that anymore and purchase a normal chip adapter. Knowing the quality of the work performed by the Chinese "masters", I realized that the adapter will not be without flaws and the adjustment of the front-back focus is simply necessary, so the adapter must be programmable! Of course, you can order from the famous domestic inventor Lushnikov, but the cost is more than 2 times higher.

So, I ordered an adapter for 105 UAH + 17 UAH delivery = 122 UAH. Lushnikov has the same one for 250 UAH.

Yesterday an order came - a programmable adapter with autofocus confirmation. As I expected, there is a backlash and there is no contact with the chip (aperture 0.0 instead of 1.4). Contact appears if the adapter is held in a certain position by force or the bayonet is not fully snapped into place.

Backlash removal

Glue a sealant into the eye for the stopper on the adapter (in my case, there was a heat shrink for wires at hand). The excess is cut off with a blade. In any case, any adapter and lens will have a certain backlash. However, the use of a sealant such as heat shrink will significantly reduce it and eliminate "bounce" when working with the lens.

<< Вклеенный уплотнитель

Elimination of chip detection problem.

The chip is not glued correctly. You need to determine in which direction it is shifted. This is done empirically - first you turn the lens all the way in one direction with a little effort and look at the aperture value. If it's still 0.0, then you didn't guess. You twist in the other direction until it stops with effort. 1.4. O! So in the opposite direction it will be necessary to move the chip a little. In my case, when I turned all the way to the right, the chip was determined, which means it had to be shifted a little to the left.

Before tearing off the chip, you need to mark its current position. I scratched out its outline with a pin. Everything, now you can navigate by this label.

You take a blade, degreaser (nail polish remover) and superglue. Gently tear off the chip from the adapter with a blade.

<< Отклеенный чип. Надо удалить старый клей и подготовить поверхности к склеиванию.

Remove dried adhesive from both surfaces. You wipe both surfaces with ocetone (without fanaticism, you don’t have to fill everything nafig). Determine by eye where you will shift the chip, check 150 times before smearing glue. I have a displacement of 0.3 - 0.4 mm (approximately). A drop of superglue and put the chip in a new place. Waiting. You check on the camera.

<< Чип переклеен влево относительно метки начального положения.

I recorded the results of the work of the adapter "before" and "after" the alteration on video.

Now about chip programming. I do not want to write how to program the aperture number and focal length, everything is described in detail in the instructions for the chip (Part 1 and Part 2). Yes, and there is no paramount importance in these values.

Here is a video from the "Internet" how such an adapter is programmed:

But with the front-back focus, the situation was not so transparent.
Before introducing any corrections, you must first take test shots (this is clear to the horse). You need to choose a central focus point and work with it. From the very first shot, it became clear that the signal was triggered completely out of focus. Need an adjustment.

Everything is very simple. As a "target" (adjustment table), I used the usual Excel (advice from an American from YouTube). It draws a cross at which the camera will be aimed. The rest of the cells are empty. Oh yes, you can make the outline of the cells so that they are more saturated. The camera is mounted on a tripod at a good angle to the computer monitor.

I used the Canon Utility to control the camera. Now you can make all the settings without approaching the camera.

The setup process is simple, but may take some time.

Algorithm:
1. Move the mouse cursor over the shutter button (to start measuring)
2. Smoothly turn the focus ring on the camera until the focus signal is reached. At the same time, try not to move the camera, so as not to bring down the sight.
3. Take a picture and determine in which direction the miss from the cross (forward or backward). If there is no focus miss, then the correction process is complete.
4. Program the correction and write down the correction value on a piece of paper (so as not to use it again and determine in which direction to make the next correction).
5. Go to step 1.

<< Пошаговая корректировка переходника по алгоритму

The final value I got was 25. I don’t know if this is bad or good, but it fit into the range of 0 - 31 and now the focus is quite accurate. A few more times I tested how I aim "by eye" and how autofocus prompts. Almost 1:1.

This is how you can modify and set up an inexpensive Chinese adapter with a chip in one evening and save money! I read on the forums that people, when faced with problems, simply throw away such adapters and start throwing money - they order new expensive adapters. I myself think that it is better to buy a quality thing once than 10 times of poor quality. But, if the hands are not out of the ass and "already bought", then you can spend an hour of time on refinement and tuning)))

Outcome
How to eliminate the backlash of the adapter?- Glue a thin seal into the lug for the stopper on the adapter. The backlash will not completely disappear, but it will decrease and it will not knock so much.
The camera does not see the chip, what should I do?- Re-glue the chip with an offset (to the right or to the left, determine experimentally before peeling off the chip).
How to set up front-back focus?- In Excel, draw a target. Make corrections according to the instructions (