Manufacturers and owners consider cost-effectiveness to be a significant advantage of polycarbonate-coated greenhouses. The reduction in costs is largely determined by the ability not to build a foundation. The lightness of the frame and transparent plastic allows you to do without a support base. However, the same reasons dictate the need for a strong anchorage to the ground so that the lightweight greenhouse structure is not turned over by gusty winds. There are clear rules according to which the greenhouse is installed on the ground. Their observance guarantees reliable fixation of the structure and the absence of problems with the harvest.
The specifics of installing a greenhouse without a foundation
Let's make a reservation right away that the installation of a light polycarbonate greenhouse without a strip or point foundation is only suitable in case of seasonal use of the structure. For lovers of year-round cultivation of greenhouse delights, it will not work. The main disadvantage of such an installation scheme is significant heat loss, reaching 10%. The energy generated by the sun - the main and only heater of spring-summer-autumn garden buildings can be treated negligently. It is impossible to do this with electricity, gas and firewood.
The second disadvantage is the absence of a fundamental barrier in the upper layers of the soil, which allows rodents and insects to freely penetrate the structure and cause damage to plants. This also happens because a shrinkage gap of 10 cm remains between the ground surface and the lower strapping of the structure. But craftsmen have ways to prevent access, which will be discussed below.
Good reasons for simplified installation
For summer residents who operate "covered gardens" exclusively from May to September / October, the method of installation on the ground gives a lot of advantages, these are:
- significant time savings, allowing installation in just a couple of fine days;
- a significant reduction in costs due to the rejection of building materials used for the construction of the foundation;
- the ability to do all the work on preparing the foundation and installation with your own hands, with the assistance of only one assistant;
- ease of dismantling in case of disassembly of the structure at the end of the season;
- mobility, which ensures the movement of the structure to a more fertile place if the selected site was not sufficiently productive.
Assembly and installation without foundation - optimal choice if the size of the plot does not allow the construction of two greenhouses for periodic alternation of greenhouse crops in them. It is easier to move the structure on T-shaped legs, from which on 6 acres there will be no useless skeleton left. We conclude: summer residents do not need a better option, the only alternative can be installation on a support base buried in the ground made of logs or timber, replacing the foundation. However, its device will take time and money, albeit not equal to pouring a monolithic tape into the formwork.
Choosing a place for a productive greenhouse
Place is a very significant factor, regardless of whether the greenhouse is installed on the ground without a foundation or a solid installation with a support base. True, a scheme without a foundation has an advantage: an unsuccessful choice will annoy only one season.
Let us briefly recall the basic rules for determining the optimal site for a greenhouse structure:
- the distance between one-story buildings on the site and the structure should be approximately 3m so that their shadow does not interfere with the growth of cultivated vegetables;
- long walls are desirable to be located in the "zonal" geographical direction, i.e. parallel to the east-west line, so that the plants receive the maximum heat from the east-west sun. Accordingly, it is better to arrange the ends "meridional" so that they "look" to the north and south;
- you need to move away from shrubs and large trees not only taking into account the shadow they spread, but also the power of the root system. Because powerful roots will take a lot of water from greenhouse pets.
It would be nice to find a place protected from drafts. After all, the breath of the breeze will cool the polycarbonate, which is why less thermal energy will enter the greenhouse. Of course, the picket fence will not save, but the fence made of corrugated board will help a lot, but for the sake of the greenhouse, it is not very reasonable to go broke to buy it. It is better to find a site protected from the winds by existing structures.
What to do with soil
The soil on the site, like parents and neighbors, is not chosen. As the saying goes, what you get is what you're happy about. And it is very desirable to know what happened. To do this, it is necessary to carry out primitive geological studies on the site:
- dig a small hole. In plan, its dimensions are approximately 70 × 70 cm, depth 1.0-1.2 m;
- determine the composition of the earth in the range of 0.2-0.8 m from the surface. There will be no problems with the identification of clean dry sand. It is crumbly, slightly moist, it is impossible to roll a ball or flagellum out of it, which retains its shape after our “pottery” experiments. Sand is the best underlying layer under greenhouse soil. It will not retain water, the stagnation of which can rot the roots of plants. If flagella with balls are rolled, under the greenhouse it will be necessary to dig a pit 0.5-0.7 m deep and fill it with river or quarry sand so that the upper 0.3 m can be filled with a fertile soil mixture;
- fix groundwater. Those. you just need to make sure whether there is water at the bottom of the pit or not. If a rather negative aspect is found around the greenhouse, it will be necessary to dig ditches to drain water.
At first glance, the steps to determine the geological and hydrogeological condition of the site may seem unnecessarily complex. However, it is easier to insure and find out the nuances in advance than to lose the crop and complain about the futility of the greenhouse.
Experienced installers of greenhouse structures are advised to put the structure on the ground or on the foundation at the end of the summer season. In autumn, you can safely trample on the harvested beds while assembling the frame and carrying it to the planned place. A good option is early spring, but not later. During the period of growth and flowering of garden inhabitants, such expanse is not expected.
Manufacturers of the material also recommend to do the installation in early spring and autumn, because the most favorable temperature for coating is 10º C. With it, cellular polycarbonate is plastic enough to easily cover the arched supports with a single sheet, and does not crack when tightening the bolts, as in frost.
Description of work on installing a greenhouse on the ground
We found a place, chose the time, now we find out how to properly install the greenhouse, and what needs to be done to securely fix it. Simplified installation of the structure on the ground can be described as follows:
- Site preparation.
- Assembling the lower harness with supporting T-shaped devices.
- Installation of the lower frame trim.
- . Installation of polycarbonate cover. Facing with material of vents, sidewalls of ends and greenhouse doors.
- Fastening devices that protect the lower part of the greenhouse from unauthorized entry of voracious insects, field and domestic rodents.
The generalized scheme is adjusted taking into account the design features of the structure and the geological nuances of the site. Part of the processes as unnecessary can be excluded, taking into account the specifics of the situation. When installed on the ground, only T-shaped supports are buried in it. They can be initially welded to the bottom rail of the structure, bolted to it, or installed in hinges welded to the rail. Consider the key points of the process of installing a factory greenhouse without a foundation.
Site preparation algorithm
Suppose we have chosen a plot on a suburban allotment for a construction with dimensions of 3 × 8 meters in area. It was preliminary found out that the underlying soil is sand with rare interlayers and lenses of sandy loam, which will not significantly impair the filtration properties. Groundwater lies much lower than the limit parameter of 1.2 m. This means that there is no need to worry about the drainage device, and we will prepare the site as follows:
- we break by installing pegs a platform of 4 × 9 meters. We connect them with twine;
- align the marked area. We remove the sod and visible mounds with a shovel, after which we check the horizontal position with a building spirit level. The maximum tolerance for height differences is no more than 5 cm. Pay attention to the perimeter, more precisely, to imaginary “bands” 0.5-0.7 m wide along the stakeout lines. It will be possible to plan the surface inside the structure after its installation;
- we retreat from the breakdown of 0.3 m, draw an auxiliary line on the soil with a shovel, bar, iron pin. This will be the outer edge of the trench;
- dig a trench 0.4 m wide. The depth of the trench depends on the length of the T-shaped legs of the greenhouse, usually 0.3m. Above the surface, the lower trim of the frame, resting on the legs, should rise by 0.1 m;
- lightly, without much fanaticism, let's trample the bottom of the trench. Because polycarbonate greenhouses weigh an average of 70 kg, and the mass of the structure is distributed over the entire area; it is not necessary to diligently tamp the bottom of the trench.
In order not to have to dig and lay the ground in a trench or bricks at corners due to a skewed frame, we will check the horizontalness of the bottom with a spirit level. Immediately correct the flaws, if found, and proceed to the assembly. Recall the need to protect plants from weeds and apply a folk trick: we will overlay the outer wall of the trench with sheets of used slate. Instead, a roofing material is suitable, but after a couple of years, the persistent roots of wheatgrass will still “break through”.
Frame assembly instructions
You can order an assembly from a supplier, but transporting and moving around the site of the assembled structure is a chore. Well, if you resort to the services of the assemblers of the seller company, then let them mount it on suburban area. Those who decide to assemble with their own hands need to stock up only with a wrench and a screwdriver. A set of factory facilities usually has a complete set of fasteners, and at the same time a scheme for self-assembly of the greenhouse, according to which you should act. However, in our case, the sequence of work will be slightly changed, so we need to:
- assemble the ends by attaching a door frame, a window counterpart and reinforcing bars to the end arches, if the ends were not assembled by the seller or welded by the manufacturer;
- bolt the bottom trim parts and attach the T-shaped legs to it. All "underground" and parts in contact with the ground must be treated with bitumen before installation in the trench;
- move the assembled harness with attached supports to the location and install this part of the structure in the trench so that the harness rises 10 cm above the surface;
- check the horizontal position of the installation with a spirit level, if necessary, correct the position by laying bricks;
- assemble the frame according to the instruction attached to the product, attach polycarbonate, install automatic vents, if they are included in the kit;
- cover the gap between the assembled structure and the ground with soil so that the edges of the sheets are closed by 3-5 cm.
All. You can "populate" the green inhabitants.
Recall that the assembly method is affected by design features. In a number of models, the lower trim is combined with the walls to which arched drains and ends are attached. This type of installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground will demonstrate a photo selection:
How to block the path of insects
We filled the gap between the surface and the bottom trim in order to create an obstacle in the way of insects. Slate will protect from moles and shrews, if you are not too lazy to install it. The function of an earthen backfill will be successfully performed by a strip of opaque polyethylene or metal. But the best option there will be an additional strapping of timber. The wooden addition will also increase the weight of the structure, making it more difficult to turn it over in a strong wind. It is attached to the frame with metal brackets, and is treated with hot bitumen or drying oil to protect it from decay.
By the way, the construction of a wooden base from a bar with a square section ranging in size from 8 × 8 to 12 × 12 cm is an excellent alternative to T-shaped holders. This method allows you not to dig a trench, but to put the structure simply on a leveled area. Now, if the wooden base is buried in the ground, then, of course, a trench is needed. This is already a wooden foundation, which can be made of timber or logs. The trench is lined with roofing paper, a base impregnated with drying oil is installed on top, and the frame strapping is attached to it with metal corners, etc.
Video about common mistakes
The video will acquaint you with the fundamental rules of installation:
We were convinced that there was nothing supernatural in the process of installing the greenhouse on the ground. There are not too many nuances, but information about them will provide reliable fixation of the structure and protection from garden troubles. Now you can proceed to the construction and further operation in the name of a wonderful harvest.
This year our summer has shown its real Siberian character. Harvesting this fall, many gardeners were more disappointed than cucumbers and tomatoes and planned to install a greenhouse in the spring.
However, a smart and competent gardener buys and installs a greenhouse for cellular polycarbonate in the fall. There are several reasons for this approach:
First reason- economic. It's no secret that greenhouses rise in price in spring. In addition, there is a queue, you have to wait a long time, and at this time every day is expensive. Seedlings outgrow, and it is not possible to plant them in the ground due to possible frosts. Some have to wait until June for installation, when there is almost no need for a greenhouse.
The second reason- you will save yourself from the fuss in the spring. In addition, in autumn there are no plants left in the garden, and you can freely prepare the place for a greenhouse without fear of harming your plantings.
Third reason- early start of planting. When, after a cold winter, the earth freezes by 1.5-2 meters, then in the greenhouse under cellular polycarbonate, spring sun rays warm the earth much faster. A small greenhouse with an area of only 15-20 m² allows you to start the summer season 1.5-2 weeks earlier than usual. It can also be used to grow your own seedlings of vegetables and annual flowers for open ground.
While your neighbors are waiting for a stable positive temperature, you will already be eating salads from your own grown vegetables.
Another reason Never put off until tomorrow what you can do today. In other words, if you prepare for spring in the fall, you will spend the winter in complete confidence for your future harvest.
Cellular polycarbonate greenhouses with a steel square tube frame are a very good solution for our weather conditions, they can be installed both directly on the ground and on the foundation.
Don't be afraid that harsh winter weather will ruin your greenhouse or shorten its lifespan. Firstly, the frame made of galvanized square pipe is designed specifically for the Siberian cold and snowy winter, and secondly, polycarbonate is two hundred times stronger than ordinary glass! If you are still worried about your greenhouse, just tap the polycarbonate on the inside of the greenhouse with your fist and the snow will fall off. Although, no one cleans the roofs of stations, which are made of polycarbonate.
It is advisable to clear the snow around the greenhouse in spring so that it does not delay the warming of the soil inside the greenhouse.
A greenhouse for summer residents is not a luxury, but just a way to extend communication with the earth and your favorite plants!
Attention!!! There is an autumn promotion for greenhouses - Order 2 greenhouses from 6 meters (you can share with your neighbors) and get a discount for every 500 rubles.
Often, future greenhouse growers face the question: when is it better to install a greenhouse - in spring or autumn?
And as the ancient sages said: right question asked is half the answer. To get the correct answer, you need to ask right question.
And the right question is: what material to buy a greenhouse from?
If you know about the properties of greenhouse materials, there will simply be no questions about the installation time.
What kind of greenhouses when it is desirable to install?
Greenhouse with omega profile frame
Usually such structures are dismantled for the winter. And in many cases, the greenhouse does not even survive the summer season.
Installing it before winter does not make sense. You run the risk of losing your greenhouse without even having time to grow anything in it.
In winter, the greenhouse often needs to be supplemented with supports and stiffeners. Therefore, if you have not assembled a greenhouse yet and do not know how it is done, it is better to assemble it first in the “lightweight” summer version. Accordingly, do it in the spring. And if the greenhouse survives until autumn, then mount additional reinforcement.
Greenhouse with painted pipe frame
In winter, the weather is often unfavorable - increased dampness and humidity. If you install such a greenhouse in the fall, it is likely that rust will already sneak under the paint in the spring.
It is better to put such a greenhouse in the spring and let it rust at least at work, and not idle.
It is also convenient to install in the summer. Before winter, you will have time to collect your hard-earned harvest of the summer-autumn turnover, and with a clear conscience give the worker into the paws of rust.
Greenhouse with galvanized pipe frame
This coating is less susceptible to corrosion than a painted pipe greenhouse. But unlike paint, it is afraid of some inorganic acids, even their very weak concentrations completely remove zinc. If you have not applied acidic fertilizers to the soil during the season, you can put up a greenhouse in the fall. And if they made it, it is better to put it on the foundation.
Also pay attention to the warranty load of the greenhouse. If it is less than 200 kg / m 2, it is better to postpone the installation until spring.
Take a closer look - are there longitudinal reinforcements on the sides of the greenhouse? Otherwise, snowdrifts growing with each new snowfall will pile on the walls and risk crushing the greenhouse like ice hummocks.
If there is, the snow load is at least 200 kg / m 2 and your soil is neutral, you can try to put a greenhouse in the fall. Just do not forget to come in winter to ventilate the zinc. He does not much favor condensation and ice. In case you want to spend this winter calmly and not fuss with the ventilation of the greenhouse, it is better to wait until spring.
During corrosion of zinc, white spots (white powder) sometimes form on its surface, the so-called white rust, to combat which steel products coated with zinc should be placed in conditions that ensure air circulation. It is necessary to avoid abrupt transitions from high to low temperatures, which can lead to moisture condensation on the zinc surface. In this regard, products after galvanizing are recommended to be stored in a dry room.
Greenhouses with a welded frame
If you put a greenhouse in the fall, something will have time to grow in it during the winter. And it will rust in place welds. It is better to have time to grow something more worthy in the greenhouse first.
Greenhouse with anodized aluminum frame or powder-coated profile pipe
If the snow load of the greenhouse is not less than 200 kg/m 2 and there are no welds, such a greenhouse can be installed at any time of the year, when it is more convenient for you. The frame is not afraid of corrosion and loads, and it does not matter to him whether it is winter or summer on the street.
New greenhouse ready for winter By installing a greenhouse in advance, in autumn, in spring, you will receive the harvest as early as possible. While your neighbors will mount greenhouses, you will already transplant seedlings into closed ground. And immediately acquire the status of "honored agronomist"!
Greenhouse where polycarbonate sheets are joined using a connecting profile
Profiles "flow" very quickly. Winter winds, temperature differences - during the day the sun, at night the frost greatly contribute to their loosening. In the spring, you may find that the greenhouse has lost its tightness.
When the polycarbonate in the greenhouse is joined in this way, it is better to postpone its installation until the spring.
Greenhouse on strip concrete foundation
If you plan to get a spring harvest in a greenhouse, it is better to prepare a foundation for it in advance, in the fall. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to wait until the earth thaws and dries up, and a stable positive temperature is established. And this is the time when plants can be planted in open ground.
The foundation must be poured before frost, otherwise the water in the solution will not dry out, fixing the concrete, but will freeze, and the concrete will crumble.
If you plan to install in the spring
In spring, every day counts. It is advisable, if possible, to buy a greenhouse in advance, at least at the end of winter. Otherwise, you run the risk of discovering that the model you need has already been sold out, that you have to wait, search, call. And the seedlings outgrow... Some growers even allow greenhouses to be kept in stock free of charge until spring.
In autumn, try to clear the area for the greenhouse. Add half a meter to the dimensions of the greenhouse on each side. Remove bushes, construction debris, if the site has a strong slope, cut it off or make a foundation. In winter, it will be best to remove snow from this area. Then in the spring the soil on it will dry out faster, and you will start installing the greenhouse earlier.
If you plan to install in the fall
In winter, the greenhouse must be ventilated (or not closed), otherwise the polycarbonate begins to “bloom”.
But green mud on polycarbonate in a closed greenhouse is sometimes washed off. And in the case of a greenhouse made of painted or galvanized pipes, keep in mind that if you completely close the greenhouse for the winter, condensation will form in rainy weather and the frame will rust. And you can't wash away the rust. It is especially important for you to ventilate the greenhouse if it is not possible to leave it open for the winter. Otherwise, the manufacturer may tell you in the spring that you have operated the greenhouse incorrectly, and the guarantee is not valid.
Also, if you close the greenhouse for the winter, you should throw snow into it. It contains elements that feed on useful living creatures under the mulch. Without snow, it will die, and the soil will lose its fertility.
It is advisable to clear the snow around the greenhouse in winter. If you do not remove it, it will melt for a long time in winter, thereby delaying the heating of the soil in the greenhouse itself.
If snow less than ten centimeters thick collects on a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter, then it can not be removed at all. He won't do any harm. If the layer of snow is larger, then you do not need to remove it with a shovel or other sharp objects. It is enough to knock on the polycarbonate from the inside of the greenhouse with your fist. This will not harm the polycarbonate, but the snow will fall off.
In no case do not scrape snow from polycarbonate with sharp objects. You run the risk of damaging the protective layer and in the spring you will see that without it, the polycarbonate melts in the sun.
Have a great harvest in your new greenhouse!
Many people think that it is better to install a greenhouse in the spring when the need arises. By postponing the installation until spring, you are doing what most gardeners do in our country. Therefore, in the spring there is a queue, you have to wait a long time, and at this time it is expensive every day, as the seedlings outgrow, and it is not possible to plant it in the ground due to possible frosts. Some have to wait until June for installation, when there is almost no need for a greenhouse.
Why is it good to put up a greenhouse in autumn or winter?
- You almost do not have to wait, you can choose any day convenient for you. At this time, there are almost no plants left in the garden and you can not be afraid that during installation you will not be trampled on plantings around the greenhouse.
- In early spring, in the installed greenhouse, the ground begins to warm up earlier, which means you can start using the greenhouse earlier.
- If you postpone the installation of a greenhouse until spring, then you risk that the price of it may rise, since in the spring, at the beginning of the construction season, as a rule, prices for metal and polycarbonate begin to rise, and hence for greenhouses.
Cellular polycarbonate is a unique material that you can work with all year round, so we install greenhouses both in autumn and winter.
How to properly position the greenhouse?
First of all, the greenhouse should be located in a well-lit place. Sunlight should hit it as long as possible. It is best if the greenhouse is located sideways to the south, since the side surface area is larger than the end face area. You should not place a greenhouse if it is gable or arched, close to buildings or a fence. In winter, this will prevent the snow from melting and can lead to the destruction of the greenhouse. And also a large mass of snow next to your greenhouse in the spring will melt for a long time, cooling the soil and preventing it from drying out.
What maintenance is needed in winter?
The soil is inhabited by a variety of microorganisms, both harmful to your plants and beneficial. The soil in the greenhouse in winter is not covered with snow and freezes heavily. This disturbs the biological balance and after a few years can lead to loss of soil fertility. Therefore, we recommend throwing snow into the greenhouse in winter. In spring, it will melt very quickly, much earlier than on open ground, but in winter it will not allow the soil to freeze deep.
What coating maintenance is required in winter?
We do not install greenhouses with weak frames. Therefore, snow should be removed from our greenhouses only in exceptional cases. It's best to just tap the inside of the polycarbonate with your fist. Good polycarbonate, and we use only proven brands, it will not harm at temperatures up to -30. It is not recommended to scrape snow or ice from the outside with hard objects. You can scratch the polycarbonate and thereby reduce its light transmission and break the UV protection.
How to balance the difference between night and day temperatures?
If you want to lengthen the growing season and use your greenhouse in early spring and late autumn (which is what a greenhouse is for), then the problem of night frosts will definitely arise in front of you. During the day on a sunny day, the temperature in the greenhouse, even with a negative outside temperature, can reach 20 or even 30 degrees, and at night it can drop to negative values. Therefore, I would like to stock up on warmth during the day for a cold night. To do this, you need to bring water into the greenhouse. Water is an excellent heat carrier and retains a lot of heat. Put a metal barrel of water in the greenhouse or, even better, spread it between the plants plastic bottles with water. Some of our clients dig them in along the path and get neat borders and a heat accumulator.
How and how to shade the greenhouse in hot weather?
On a hot summer day, when the temperature outside exceeds 30 degrees, and the sunlight makes the heat deadly, the temperature inside the greenhouse can go over 50 degrees. This can lead to the death of plants. Therefore, there is a desire to shade the greenhouse. This can be done in many ways. You can throw some covering material, such as gauze, over the greenhouse and attach the edges to the ground so that it does not blow away in the wind. You can fix such material inside. But there is a simpler and more original way of shading, which we saw in Turkey. It is necessary to “whitewash” the greenhouse by spraying it with chalk solutions. But you can not use any substances that can damage polycarbonate. When the heat subsides, you can clean your greenhouse by spraying it with a hose.
Why and how to use tables in the greenhouse?
The table in the greenhouse not only allows you to work more comfortably, but also allows you to take the plants out earlier in the greenhouse. In the spring, when the seedlings outgrow, and the boxes occupied all the window sills, I want to plant the plants in the greenhouse. But the ground is still cold there, at night the temperature drops below zero. If you put a heater in the greenhouse, it "burns" the seedlings and does not heat the soil.
Tables in the greenhouse allow you to solve all these problems. If the seedling boxes are on the tables and the heater is on the floor, then the warm air heats the soil much more efficiently, and the plants are far from the hot air coming out of the heater. In addition, the higher the plants stand, the warmer they are in the air. So you can heat the greenhouse less.
The time will come, and you will transplant the seedlings from the boxes into the ground, and you will dismantle the tables and take them out of the greenhouse until autumn or next spring.
And why is it necessary to till the soil after harvesting in the greenhouse?
The preparation of the greenhouse begins in the fall. After the last harvest, you need to thoroughly clean the greenhouse from plant residues, remove the top layer of soil by 5 cm, which contains a large number of pests and diseases. Remove the old twine (it is better to burn the twine for the garter). Plant residues can be placed in compost heaps but it's better to burn it. Disinfection of the greenhouse is carried out by burning a sulfur block. Autumn digging of the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. In autumn, it is necessary to apply organic fertilizers - humus or manure - 10-20 kg / m2. In the absence of organic fertilizers, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers: simple superphosphate - 20g / m2. potassium sulfate - 25-30g / m2. It is not recommended to treat the soil with pesticides.
Preparing soil mixture for seedlings!
Soil for seedlings is prepared in several ways:
- Sifted peat + sawdust in a ratio of 3:1, the finished mixture is moistened with a solution of Kemira combi at the rate of 20g per 10l of water.
- Field (turf land) + peat + sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. Before sowing, add Kemira-universal fertilizer 50g / 10l of soil or nitroammophoska 40g / 10l of soil to the prepared mixture, mix everything thoroughly.
- Field (turf land) + humus + sawdust, in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. The soil must be disinfected by prolonged freezing before use. Soil from coniferous forests for growing seedlings is not recommended.
Favorable time for watering plants in the greenhouse!
Plants in a greenhouse are best watered in the evening or early morning. Watering during the hot part of the day can cause plant burns. However, it is still more desirable to water the plants in the morning; it is better not to water at night, because. this contributes to the appearance of diseases, in particular, peronosporosis, or downy mildew.
At low daytime temperatures, cucumbers can be watered during the day, at twelve o'clock. By this time the water will have warmed up. It is best to keep the container in a greenhouse.
Tomatoes are also best watered in the morning, they do not require such warm water as cucumbers. Morning watering will not provoke excessive moisture at night. And it is harmful - all sorts of rot can occur.
Pepper does not tolerate drying of the soil, but also does not like waterlogging. It is better to water it in the morning, also with warm water. This is especially useful if the nights are cold.
When the head curl begins, the cabbage needs a lot of water. During this period, she needs three buckets per day. Excess moisture is dangerous - the root system can rot.
If you grow plants in soil without impurities, they dry out faster and need more water. The bigger and older a plant gets, the more water it needs compared to younger and immature plants. During the dormant period in January and February, your plants need less water.
Mass work in the gardens begins on the May holidays. All gardeners come to their dachas, and work is in full swing to clean up the garden after the winter. At the same time, many cover the greenhouse. But by the beginning of May, the temperature in it is already such that it is quite possible to grow early vegetables there and sow seeds for seedlings.
Cold-resistant vegetables are not afraid of small frosts. And even if the temperature drops to -6 -7 degrees, then in the greenhouse it will be 3-4 degrees higher. And this means that the plants will not die.
Covering a greenhouse is not difficult, but for this you need to choose the time. In the spring it is always missing. An excellent alternative is a greenhouse from modern materials that do not need to be mounted every year.
Everyone who has purchased such a greenhouse is satisfied that it is ready for work from early spring. There is still snow in the garden, and in the greenhouse the earth has already thawed, you can prepare it for sowing.
In addition, additional covering material can be used inside. If you install arcs, then it’s not scary to leave tomato seedlings under them. At night, you need to cover it with any non-woven material (spunbond, lutrasil, agrotex). This is a good way out for those who rushed to sow the seeds at home, and the plants began to stretch in the room. In a cool greenhouse, starting from April 20, tomatoes will undergo hardening and slow down growth a little.
If the plants are immediately planted in a greenhouse, then you don’t have to worry about watering. At a cool temperature, once every 5-6 days is enough. But if the seedlings are in boxes or cups for subsequent transplantation into the ground, then it needs to be watered more often, since the earth dries quickly in a small container.
Starting from April, seeds of annual flowers can be sown in the greenhouse: asters, marigolds, amaranth, zinnias, cleoma, tanacetum, annual dahlias and many others.
From vegetables - cabbage for seedlings. For spring consumption: parsley, dill, radish, lettuce, turnip for greens. For an early harvest - zucchini (covering them with a spunbond or plastic can). With this sowing, zucchini will be ready in June.
In a bright greenhouse, sowing strawberries is good. A special section is allocated for it. Sprinkle loose soil (preferably purchased) or sifted humus. Small seeds are mixed with sand and evenly distributed over the soil surface. Watered from a sprayer with a fine spray. The sowing site is covered with spunbond to reduce moisture evaporation. Nice results gives sowing under the lid from under the cake.
In such conditions (an abundance of light and a cool temperature), strawberry seedlings do not stretch, they develop strong and healthy.
You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" of 2011 No. 4.
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