We make rabbitry with our own hands. How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands - types of structures, preparation for work and phased construction technology. Comfortable floor from Zolotukhin

25.05.2020

If desired, with minimal time and effort, you can build a cage for rabbits yourself. It is enough to choose the most suitable design, purchase materials, develop a scheme or take a finished one from the Internet.

Hand-made production of rabbitries is a profitable alternative to the expensive services of craftsmen, since improvised materials can serve as the basis for the design.

The first thing to pay attention to in the production of nurseries is the design. The parameters and quality of the final building will depend on the chosen design.

There are several varieties of rabbits:

single-tier;
bunk;
three-tier;
multi-tiered;
monolithic;
portable;
sheds;
nurseries according to Zolotukhin, Tsvetkov, Rabbitaksu.

Nurseries differ in materials (wood, plywood, metal profiles) and the breed of pets. In the latter case, rabbitries are distinguished for rabbits and rabbits, for decorative breeds, dwarfs, etc.

Nurseries are designed for warm and cold seasons, for this special seals are placed in them, buildings are closed from precipitation.

How to make cages for rabbits with your own hands?

For rabbit breeding, it is enough to have a strong cage with heaters at home.

When building nurseries, the following rules and recommendations should be considered:

Place animals of the same species, sex, weight and characteristic habits in one cage.
Place individuals with offspring in buildings with two compartments and tiers.
Standard nursery parameters: length about 80-120 cm, height about 50 cm, width about 70-80 cm.
It is better to keep young animals together with everyone in the group compartment.
The number of rabbits in one cage is calculated based on its size.

Place to stay

It is worth deciding on the location of the rabbitry before moving on to the construction stage, since then it is difficult to transfer it. The place should be protected from drafts, wind, sun.

It is especially important to choose the right place for construction if it will be located outdoors.

Important! If the nursery is located on the street around the clock, it is important to take care of the roofing materials. It is best to exclude the use of metal for the roof, it is worth taking more dense and heat-resistant materials. Suitable wood or slate.

In this case, it is better to make a wooden floor with a retractable pallet, which is upholstered with a grate on top. The front and rear walls of the rabbitry are insulated with polystyrene foam, and a heated floor is installed for the winter.

What materials are most often used to make cells

Rabbits are divided into types according to the material used for production.

In self-production at home, improvised materials are used:

wood;
slate;
corrugated board;
brick;
metal profile.

Additionally, insulation, plastering, grinding will be required. Often the rabbitry consists of a wooden frame and a solid wire mesh, which serves as a door and is equipped with latches, curtains.

Stages of creating a cage for rabbits

The construction of a two-section rabbitry goes through the following steps:

Frame assembly.
Upholstery of walls with plywood sheets.
Floor covering.
Mounting walls between zones.
Installation of doors, mother liquor.
Mounting a nursery.

Final stage - installation of feeders and drinkers, covering the floor with branches for the convenience of pets.

cage frame

For homemade The frame often uses a solid wooden beam, which is sheathed on top with wood, oriented strand board or slate.

The frame is assembled according to a pre-prepared scheme, it is recommended to pre-treat the timber with an antiseptic. To fix the beams, self-tapping screws of different sizes are used (from 25 to 75 mm).

Note! Since rabbits are rodents, they love to gnaw on wood and can grind down the upholstery inside, so it is recommended to upholster the cage with metal or slate.

From above, the frame after assembly can be painted with a special primer paint. If the cage is located on the street all year round, it is recommended to install it on wooden bars-legs. The optimal length of the legs of the frame varies from 80 to 100 cm. For an indoor nursery, legs 30-40 cm long will suffice.

Roof installation

Depending on the design chosen, various roofing materials are used for the manufacture and installation of the roof. Often the roof for rabbitries is made from layers of slate.

Installation of slate sheets involves the creation of a certain angle of inclination. Since the frame is usually made of wooden beams, it is important to mount the roof in such a way that its edges do not extend beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. So the frame of the cage structure will be reliably protected from precipitation and decay.

Slate leaves are fastened together with nails with wide caps or self-tapping screws. Some interior cage designs provide for a simple galvanized mesh roof.

Mother liquor device

It is a special structure for the rabbit, necessary to ensure maximum offspring. This is a special design that separates the common nest from the environment where the rabbits will be.

For use plywood sheets, boards, slats, hinges and insulating material, which is most often ordinary sawdust.

The process of installing a mother liquor does not require much effort and skill. The frame itself is made according to a ready-made scheme, slats are used for edging, a workpiece is hammered together, insulated and a layer of plywood is stuffed on top. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps in the manufacture. The finished walls of the frame are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Feeder device

Feeders for eared pets can be bought ready-made or made with your own hands. Drawings can be found on the Internet or prepared independently.

Allocate different kinds feeders depending on materials, shapes and designs:

ceramic bowls;
nursery feeders;
gutters;
bunkers;
cup feeders.

For the production of feeders with their own hands, they use tin, wood, metal profiles, plastic, slate and plexiglass. The choice of material depends on the type of cage and its location (inside or outside).

You can also make a feeder from improvised materials (for example, from a tin can). The feeder is placed inside the nest. When making it yourself, it is important to ensure that the feeder does not have sharp corners, edges and notches.

Types of cages for rabbits, drawings, dimensions, description

Different types of cells are distinguished based on such parameters as the breed of rabbits, conditions of detention, size. According to the general parameters, external and stationary types of cells are distinguished.

The most extensive classification is the division of cells according to the breeds of inhabitants:

General / group- represent an extensive nest, designed for a different number of rabbits (from 10 or more), the size varies from 60 to 120 cm. The design includes several departments for pets of the same weight, age, temperament.
Individual- a house for one adult pet is suitable for demanding and pugnacious males who need personal space.
mother liquors- houses for rabbits with cubs. Usually they are installed inside a group nest in the form of a box, they are a closed space with one opening.
sheds- a compact design with two tiers and sides, the cages adjoin each other with back walls, this design comes in different sizes, it is used for young and adult pets.
Individual designs by Mikhailov, Zolotukhin, Tsvetkov - designs developed on an individual basis according to the personal drawings of the creators are distinguished by ergonomics, simplicity and compactness.

Cells from Zolotukhin: features and benefits

The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Zolotukhin has developed his own cage design for eared pets, which is distinguished by ease of manufacture and maximum protection of animals from external negative factors.

Standardly, such a cage involves the construction of two floors and can accommodate 3-6 adult pets.

A distinctive advantage of the rabbitry is security, the inclination of the feeder, the practicality of cleaning.

Its standard sizes are:

width - 2 m;
height - 1.5-2 m;
depth - 60-80 cm;
back mesh - 15-20 cm;
door - 40x40 cm.

The design of the cell according to Tsvetkov implies a two-tiered mini-farm with 4 cells. Such a cage is equipped with hanging mixed feeders and drinking bowls, in which the water is automatically heated, with hanging queen cells.

Among the design features of A. A. Tsvetkov, there are:

two-tier device, 2 compartments per tier;
the cage is intended for arrangement in the open air;
the presence of bunker feeders and drinking bowls;
availability of ventilation and purification systems.

Sawdust, foam plastic, peat or tree bark are used as cell heaters. For roofing use roofing material or slate. The frame of this design is made of a solid wooden beam, painted with white paint, insulated and protected with plywood sheets.

- the simplest and most affordable option, made from a metal mesh. Such a cage is significantly different from a wooden cage in terms of practicality and payback.

It does not require regular maintenance and repair, has high strength, eliminates damage to the material by pets. For the manufacture of the structure, a solid metal wire with a diameter of 1.5-1.8 mm and a cell size of 12x50 mm is used.

Important! In a metal cage, the common nest must be separated from the feeder section by a partition covered with a thin layer of metal.

This design is arranged rectangular or square and eliminates the possibility of sagging material.

A cage made of a metal mesh is suitable exclusively for indoors, because in winter the metal cools down and heats up in summer, which negatively affects the condition of pets.

The small cage excludes the arrangement of a queen cell, which makes it suitable only for breeding males. The compact design is spacious and consists of 2 tiers that can accommodate up to 8 adult residents.

The compact cage does not take up much space, but is open, so it is only suitable for arranging in summer period or indoors.

In compact-type cages, it is impossible to put hay without climbing a ladder. Such a cage requires frequent cleaning due to the open design and the rapid accumulation of waste in the lower tiers.

The simplest design

For the manufacture of the simplest design, additional materials and special tools are not required. It consists of 2-3 tiers, can accommodate up to 8-9 pets.

However, this design has more disadvantages than advantages. It does not have the ability to install nipple drinker, there is no hay section, it requires regular cleaning and an internal feeder.

Do-it-yourself two- or three-tier cage for rabbits: step-by-step instructions with photo examples

The bunk cage is the most common and simplest design.

A two- or three-tiered cage is installed as follows:

Make a structure frame from bars 70 cm high and 120-150 cm long.
Insulate the finished frame with plywood sheets.
Referring to the cage drawing, leave space inside for arranging a common nest and.
Install nest and mother liquor.
Install baffles between nest and feeding area.
Install a slate roof, mount hinges for quick access.
Install a wooden door in the nest box.
Install a mesh metal door in the aft compartment.
Lay the floor of wooden slats, cover the top with a metal fine mesh.
Install the bottom tray under the cage.
Put insulating materials (hay, sawdust, polystyrene).
Install a feeder and drinkers.

Design Features and Benefits

Two- and three-tier cage designs are considered the most convenient and beneficial for breeding pets. The cage is designed with maximum comfort for the animals, there are feeders for mixed feed, hay and fruits inside.

The design does not require regular cleaning, allows you to keep the compartments clean when keeping up to 25 adult pets. For rabbits and rabbits, a separate compartment is allocated below.

High-quality, reliable and comfortable cages for rabbits will not be difficult to make with your own hands at home. In the presence of necessary materials you can build a practical mini-farm that will serve as a pet house for many years.

In order for the cage to perform its functions and bring maximum benefit, it is recommended to choose the type and design of the rabbitry, taking into account the breed, age and weight of the individuals. Comfortable conditions of keeping will help to grow healthy, strong and active animals without diseases and behavioral defects.

Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as turn into continuous losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green fodder, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in keeping and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will talk about how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.

The word "bunny" has a double meaning. This is the name of the room where there are rabbit enclosures, as well as cages made together and mini-farms standing on the street.

Most often, rabbitries are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where there are cages in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.

Rabbit Hut - inside view

A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:

create comfortable conditions for living and breeding animals;
be convenient in service for a person of average height and build;
have a well-thought-out system for removing waste products from cells and their subsequent disposal.

The buildings for the rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built according to GOST 23838.

In practice, cages with these animals can also be placed in a frame-type barn.

Common designs and their features

A standard indoor rabbitry is a closed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, less often with a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. Between them there are passages, the optimal width of which is 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated for technical rooms and food storage.

Tiered mini-farms

Rabbit in a hole

This is one of the most controversial decisions, supporters and opponents of such a design are approximately equally divided.

An example of a "pit" keeping of rabbits

Advantages of "pit" content:

burrow life is natural for rabbits;
in the pits, the microclimate, humidity and temperature normal for rabbits are naturally formed;
animals breed all year round;
good litter survival;
animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.

Cons of "pit" content:

it is impossible to regulate mating;
it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
difficult to catch animals;
there is a chance that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.

According to a number of farmers, pit keeping is the best option, as it is as close as possible to the natural living conditions of rabbits. It is believed that the meat characteristics of underground rabbits are much better. However, with all the advantages, the organization of such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. deal with rabbits in the pits in.

All-weather version with insulated compartments

The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents in the open air or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, for the successful maintenance of rabbits, you need to think about warming. There are two options here, and to achieve best result they need to be combined. Either heat the rabbitry, or insulate the compartments themselves, which contain the animals.

The temperature in the place of their maintenance should not fall below -5. The range from +5 to +15-20 degrees is considered ideal for this time of year. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warmth, rabbits breed well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal "breaks" in this type of business.

In the mother liquor, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on keeping the cubs than he will eventually make a profit. Keep in mind that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and warming the nest, both mole rats, and already grown up, and rabbits that have grown hair - low temperatures, everything is even, harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as a decrease in immunity.

The original method of warming the compartments was invented by Russian rabbit breeders. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, where an electric heating pad of the EG-1 brand (or another) is inserted. With the help of a transformer, the heating pad, if necessary, is switched on to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.

Basic principles to follow when creating a rabbitry

Regardless of the design of the rabbitry and cages chosen, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and cage ventilation. When creating a rabbitry, they must be followed.

It is often believed that rabbits in nature live in burrows, and therefore they supposedly can be kept indoors without a source of lighting. This is the wrong approach. These animals really dig holes, but they usually spend daylight hours on the surface, where they feed. The lack of lighting inhibits the reproductive function, reduces immunity, disrupts the synthesis of vital vitamins in the rabbit's body. As a result, the animals become weak, wither, lose their appetite and their resistance to disease decreases.
No less harmful and direct sunlight. Their prolonged exposure leads to hypothermia. Getting on the mucous membrane and in the eyes, the bright sun leads to their inflammation. In other words, rabbitries should be lit, but direct sunlight should be avoided. When kept outdoors, it is necessary to make a canopy over the cages or consider other options for creating round-the-clock shading. Closed rabbitries must be lit so that the length of daylight hours is from 16 to 18 hours, depending on the time of year.
The optimum temperature for adult rabbits is from 10 to 20 degrees. If the cage is colder, they will grow more slowly and gain weight less. If it is warmer, animals can get heat stroke. Therefore, you need to take care of the possibility of heating in the winter and creating shade in the summer. A ventilation system is necessary if the cages are to be kept indoors.

Types and sizes of cells

From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used both autonomously, for keeping one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.

There are a lot of options for cages for rabbits. But all of them can be divided into three conditional groups, depending on the purpose.

mother liquors

These are cages of a special design, where rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.

A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from improvised materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

Nest building rules:

it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that too small rabbits cannot get out of the nest;
the floor in the mother liquor should only be solid;
the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a stainless steel sheet, and a thick layer of straw on top;
the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to put it on furniture hinges);
if the mother liquor will stand on the street or in a cold room in the winter, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven heating method: an infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).

Two-section cage with sennik for adults

This type of design is good for keeping two adult animals. At plus temperatures it is permissible to expose it outdoors, at minus temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.

A two-section cage is a wooden box with a length of 1.4 - 2 m, a height of 0.5 to 0.7 m and a width of 0.5-0.7 m. The upper, lower, side and rear walls are made solid. It is best to use constructions knocked down without gaps from sanded unpainted boards for this, but other solutions are possible, for example, from a fine mesh or from tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will hold the entire structure.

Drinking bowls and feeders are placed at the edges, so that the animals could not climb there with their paws.

Two-section cells can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to more rationally use the rabbitry area.

Video - Do-it-yourself two-section cage

Cage with nest

This option is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle for him. In this case, the cage is divided into two compartments with a manhole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.

group cells

Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be both heterosexual and same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be seated in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.

How to create a drawing of a rabbitry

Of course, a drawing of a single cage or a whole rabbitry can be done independently, or simply fit any of the above options to fit your size. The main parameter you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in a cage.

For one young animal, a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2 is required. For a comfortable stay, this rate should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males, which are planned to be put into breeding, need 2 times more space.

An adult animal needs at least half a meter of free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to fully move.

For rabbits of large breeds, these standards must be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage, without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.

There must be a separate nest in the mother liquor. Its typical dimensions are 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

When the dimensions are determined, you can proceed to the drawing. You should start by drawing a top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into compartments. Then, on the drawing, all elements are indicated: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are affixed everywhere. Based on the top view, the side view is drawn. An imaginary section should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the mother liquor nest. The sizes must match. You can draw a bottom view, paying special attention to the legs and the supporting structure.

Nuances in the manufacture of rabbitry

If you are building a cage for the first time, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.

Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.

Video - Step by step building a cage for rabbits

Tools and materials

To build a rabbitry, you do not need anything particularly rare or expensive. Of the tools, a regular construction set is enough. The presence of a welding machine will be a plus.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Electric jigsaw

Usually, lining, timber or ordinary boards are taken for construction. Only their use is not recommended, rabbits gnaw through the tree. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:

Let's analyze: what materials are the parts for creating cells.

Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.

Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but you should not do this. Plywood is less durable, warps, delaminates and bubbles from moisture, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly gnaw through it.

front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be taken if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.

Floor. It is made from fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.

Roof. It is made of wood, roofing material, slate. But corrugated board can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.

How to choose a seat

Whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a shed, you need to start by choosing the right place.

taken in Russian Federation building codes allow the construction of an outbuilding with an area of 15 square meters on a personal plot. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of 40 sq. m. The residential building must be at least 15 m away from the two above-mentioned buildings.

Additionally, you need to take care of the following:

Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Small discrepancies are not critical.

Prices for various types of timber

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant, it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days of time on it.

If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. Using the above tips, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, material for construction.

Step 2 Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wood or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame must be solid.

Step 3 With the help of a joiner's square and a level, a shelf and an upper frame are attached to the frame;

Step 4 The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beams or they are cut separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, at the corners it is necessary to cut holes for the legs.
Cover installation

Step 6 A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.

We nail the frame, in which there will be a grid in the future

Step 7 Upholstered with a net or clog the sides of the cage with boards. The mesh is cut with scissors for metal and put on self-tapping screws with a screwdriver.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Help in the construction will also help watching the video of the manufacturing process.

Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals

This video shows in detail all the stages of construction, are given helpful tips newcomers.

As can be seen from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite realistic even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.

To make a rabbitry with your own hands, you do not need special skills or special knowledge. It is enough to be able to handle ordinary construction tools. However, the matter must be approached responsibly. Rabbits are very sensitive to the conditions of detention, including the quality of housing. If the cages are damp, cramped or stuffy, then you should not even dream of a prosperous livestock. We will tell you in detail how to properly build a room for animals and from what materials.

Site selection and building requirements

Usually, a rabbitry is understood as a special rectangular building or a one-story barn, where there are cages for animals in several tiers. If the farmer lives in a warm region where there are no cold winters, two or three walls with a canopy can serve as a shelter. In areas with a harsh climate, rabbitries are made heated.

There are several rules that designs must comply with:

be of such a height that it is convenient to serve them;
have a size and environment that is comfortable for the life and reproduction of animals;
have a good system for removing urine and feces from the houses.

The rabbitry should be located in a quiet place, as the noise unnerves the eared ones. A dog aviary, a barn, a chicken coop are not the best neighborhood for rabbits. Also, the direct rays of the sun should not enter the cages, but animals need a lot of light.

In windy weather, rabbit houses should not be blown. The distance from the cells to the ground is 0.8-1 m.

Optimal dimensions

The correct size of the rabbitry depends on how many animals you intend to keep. For a pair of rabbits, you need a house divided into two sections, between which a net is placed at an angle. The height of the structure is from 50 to 70 cm, length - from 140 cm, width - from 60 cm. To save space, rabbitries are often made two- and three-tiered (shed system). At the same time, artificial ventilation must be made on the lower tier. On the top it will be quite natural.

In cages intended for living in a group of young animals up to 2 months old, the sizes are different. For one rabbit you need at least 0.5 square meters. m area, ideally 1 sq. m, but it is impossible to keep too many animals in the house. The best dimensions of such a rabbit hutch are: 200-300 cm long, 80-100 cm wide, 40-60 cm high.

A queen cell for a rabbit with newborn cubs is built, given that a female with an offspring needs at least 0.6 square meters. m area, not counting the nest. The dimensions of the latter: length 35-36 cm, height 30-33 cm, width from 25 cm to 28 cm.

Large breeds and males that are used for breeding need more space.

Popular types of structures

To build a do-it-yourself rabbit shed, you need to consider possible shelter options.

If you live in the south or in the middle lane, you can build a mini-farm of several tiers to protect animal cages. For cold regions, this option is not suitable, as it does not provide for heating.

The second option is suitable for any climate and any season. These are large rabbitries with compartments, each of which is insulated. Such structures are often built heated. To keep the rabbits warm, you can use heating pads EG-1 or similar for heating each compartment. They are placed fixed to the bottom and, in case of frost, they are turned on to the minimum mode.

The third type of structures for keeping rabbits is pits. They have many supporters and opponents. On the one hand, the animals are comfortable in the pits, the conditions are as close to natural as possible. But controlling mating and catching rabbits is very difficult.

This content does not require cages. It is enough to organize a hole with a depth of 1-2 m, concrete the walls and floor, and fill it with sand from above. Layer - 20 cm. A grid is placed on the sand. Feeders and drinkers are located here.

What are the cells

To build a rabbitry with your own hands, you need to decide on the type of cells that will be there. Their purpose varies. For example, it can be used as an aviary for keeping animals one by one, if you need to transplant some individuals.

If you choose to build a rabbit shed, cages can be kept there. It also happens that they are included in collapsible complex mini-farms.

Depending on the functions of the cells are divided into:

for young animals that have been transplanted;
for fattening animals;
houses with a nest for females with rabbits.

Rabbits can be attached to the wall of another agricultural building. This is especially convenient if that room is heated - it will play the role of additional insulation.

A good solution is houses with a small aviary, so that the animals have both shelter and space to stretch.

The best materials for the job

Before building a rabbitry with your own hands, you need to choose the right materials. Remember: rabbits gnaw on everything that surrounds them, so the houses must be made from natural ingredients. Usually they make wooden buildings, upholstering places accessible to animals with metal. It is impossible to impregnate the tree with an antiseptic, otherwise the pets may be poisoned.

So, to build a rabbitry with your own hands, you will need:

slats, boards and bars made of wood;
mesh galvanized;
sheets of tin and iron;
hinges, nails, self-tapping screws, latches;
metal corners, pipes;
roofing material.

To build a roof, use slate. It does not pass moisture and does not overheat in the sun. The amount of materials depends on the size of the rabbitry and is calculated based on the drawings.

Ready and homemade drawings

To make good housing for pets, you need the right rabbitry scheme. You can find ready-made ones on the Internet, or you can draw it yourself. The second option is convenient in that you can change the parameters depending on the number of animals on the farm.

There are several types of cells. The first is a two-section, or two-tier, suitable for two adult animals. It is rectangular in shape. All walls, except for the front, are solid. Mesh doors are made in front.

The second option when building a rabbitry is a cage with a place for a nest. They have two compartments connected by a small passage. They are different sizes. A smaller one is taken under the nest. Group houses are needed for young animals aged 3 to 6 months. They do not make compartments.

Before building a rabbitry, we make a drawing. Having decided on the size of the house, draw a rectangle - a top view. If required, mark the compartments.

We draw where the doors, feeders and other furnishings will be located. Then we draw a side view of the building. The cut that you imagine should go through the section, the most difficult in terms of technology. For example, through the nest.

It is not necessary to draw a bottom view, but if there are difficulties with legs, supports, this will not hurt. Make sure that the plan is correct - all sizes must match.

Making wooden houses

Having ready-made drawings, building a rabbitry with your own hands is not so difficult. First, take two pieces of the corner and connect. It turns out the foundation. Next, we make a frame for the lid of the house from two wooden rectangles. We drill holes, connect the parts with bolts and nuts. We make inserts in the corners.

We trim the corners with wooden bars and put the frame on the rack. We make a rectangle at the base of the cage with a crate of 5 bars. Fasten to the corner of the crossbar. The frame can be created from metal pipes, then welding will be required.

Let's move on to the frame. The best option is a chain-link mesh, cells 20x20 mm, galvanized. For the front of the cages, sides and doors, a simple steel mesh will do.

We make a sennik from a similar material (the space between the compartments where hay is placed for food). The size of the cells should be 50x50 mm, otherwise it will be difficult for the animals to get food. You can stretch the whole mesh or cut and install in parts.

A galvanized mesh is laid on the slatted bottom. The cell size can be 10x25 or 25x25 mm. To create a floor, it is worth using special bars, previously planed. The distance between them is 1 cm. Place plywood on the net so that the rabbits do not injure their paws, but do not fasten it - the plywood must be regularly removed and dried.

For better strengthening and insulation of the rabbit house, plywood, polycarbonate or boards are attached to the back wall.

Roof and doors

We continue to talk about how to make rabbitry. Wavy slate, or roofing felt for the roof, is attached to a crate made of bars. For fastening, use self-tapping screws, or ordinary mounting strips.

Doors are hinged from below, and a latch or lock is placed at the top. Thus, the door will tilt, which is convenient. But the popular rotating wooden shutters on a nail do not need to be installed. They quickly loosen up and stop working.

Containers for food and water can also be made independently from wood. Plastic utensils will not work. Any object made of plastic is harmful to rabbits, who love to chew on everything. Read more in the articles "About Rabbit Feeders" and "About Rabbit Drinkers".

If you are making rabbitry for the first time, use cheap or used materials. They will not be sorry if something does not work out the first time. When you fill your hand, build better houses for animals.

Now that you know everything about the rabbitry device, it remains only to say about some of the nuances. Novice breeders rarely think about them, but in vain.

Firstly, when making houses by hand, people try to save on everything, especially on fasteners. However, cheap fasteners are the worst idea. The strength and durability of the entire structure depends on its quality.

Secondly, when installing nets on the doors and inside the rabbitries, make sure that the cut ends of the wire do not stick out. They must be well bent so that animals cannot get hurt.

Under the mesh floor in the rabbitry, you need to put a pallet. Then the animal waste can be easily removed without creating unsanitary conditions.

If the house has compartments, the edges of the passage between them must be sheathed with metal. Otherwise, the rabbits will not fail to sharpen their teeth on him.

If the cages are left outside in winter, they need to be insulated. Read more about this in the article "Is it possible to keep rabbits on the street in winter."

Was our article helpful to you? Write your opinion in the comments.

Purpose and arrangement of the rabbitry

There are two meanings of the word "rabbit": a room with cages for rabbits and interconnected enclosures. Most often, such mini-farms are installed outdoors.

Most rabbit breeders prefer the rabbitry in the form of a well-lit, ventilated and heated room. Cages for rabbits are installed in tiers. In regions with a warm climate, outdoor multicellular structures with a canopy are used.

When creating drawings for a rabbitry, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

Provide rabbits with comfortable living conditions.
Make enclosures comfortable for breeding and subsequent.
The height and width of the room should be suitable for free movement of the rabbit breeder between cages.
Equip the enclosures with a convenient manure removal system.

Common designs and their features

The most popular is the design of a closed type with good ventilation, heated and illuminated by additional devices. Sometimes automatic drinkers are installed. Animal houses are installed in several rows, on top of each other (usually 3-story structures). Between the rows leave one and a half meter passages. Inside the premises, a utility room is created for storing equipment, hay and feed.

You can make a rabbitry yourself in the format of a mini-farm. Such structures are used in regions with a warm climate, since they are installed outdoors. It is recommended to raise the truss above the ground by a meter, for example, by extending the legs.

Hole rabbitries are an ambiguous design, with their pros and cons.

Positive sides:

In nature, rabbits live in burrows, so such conditions are close to natural.
The climatic conditions in the burrows do not need to be further regulated, since the necessary temperature and humidity are maintained inside.
Beneficial effect on the reproduction of rabbits.
Young growth develops quickly, has good immunity.
Helps to increase the muscle mass of rodents.
Feeding is facilitated by.

Disadvantages:

Reproduction is not controlled.
Observation of individual animals is difficult.
Getting the rabbit out of the hole is also problematic.
If the fence is not deep enough underground, the rabbits can escape.

Warming of cells of each rodent.
Installation of heaters in the rabbitry.

In the habitats of rodents, it is important to maintain a comfortable temperature: between +5 and +20 degrees. AT winter time year, do not allow the temperature to drop more than 5 degrees below zero. The heat in the room contributes to the rapid weight gain in pets, reproduction and maintaining health.

In the place of keeping a pregnant rabbit and baby rabbits, it is not recommended to lower the temperature by more than +10. Low temperatures adversely affect the growth, development and health of animals. Frostbite can kill rabbits. Young growth is born without fluff, therefore it is especially exposed to cold. Despite the mother's concern for warming the nest and cubs, one should also be attentive to the health of the animals and heat the rabbit huts. With constant exposure to drafts and cold, young animals have reduced immunity, the rate of development and weight gain.

An unusual way of warming is the installation of a "pocket" from a dense plywood sheet to the bottom of the cage. An electric heating pad or wire is placed in a niche. The heating mode is determined individually, depending on the climate.

Principles to follow when creating a rabbitry

In order for rabbits to grow up healthy, multiply and gain weight, it is important to build a comfortable rabbitry in compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. You should familiarize yourself with the standards for temperature, ventilation and lighting.

Lighting is an important aspect of a rabbit's life. Despite the natural habitat conditions (burrows), in the daytime the rabbits are in the illuminated area. The lack of light reduces the ability of rabbits to reproduce, depresses the immune system, and prevents the formation and absorption of vitamins in the body. Therefore, in rodents, appetite decreases, apathy appears and the risk of spreading diseases increases.

Exposure to direct sunlight can also adversely affect pets. Prolonged contact with the sun leads to hypothermia, inflammation of the mucous membranes and eyes. Therefore, when keeping rabbits on the street, a canopy should be installed.

At temperatures below +10 and above +20 degrees, the development of animals slows down, and heat stroke may occur. Ventilation is required in the rabbitry to prevent excessive heating.

Types and sizes of cells

There are many options for housing rabbits. Each type of construction has its own characteristics, advantages, disadvantages and purpose.

A cage for keeping a pregnant rabbit with young animals must be equipped with a nest. Nest building basics:

A window in the box is cut at a height of about 10 cm from the floor so that the cubs do not fall out and get out.
The floor in the cage is solid.
So that the nest, constructed of plywood, does not rot, you should cover the bottom with an iron sheet and sprinkle with a thick layer of hay.
The nest should have an opening lid.
Take care of heating the room if the temperature is below the recommended one (for example, install an infrared lamp in a special box).

Two-section and group cages are suitable for keeping two or more individuals at the same time. Group maintenance is used for young animals up to six months of age. When aggression is shown by one of the rodents, individuals should be seated.

Nuances in the manufacture of rabbitry

Beginning rabbit breeders who make rabbitry at home need to study construction information and some tips to help avoid mistakes.

You should not save on materials, especially on fastening systems. The strength of the structure is largely determined by the quality of the fasteners.
Carefully handle edges that rabbits can get hurt on.
To facilitate cleaning up after the animals, a mesh floor with a pallet is installed. Through the mesh, feces and waste fall into the tray and are easily removed.
It is not recommended to use a piece of wood on a clove as a constipation. Install a hook or latch.
Parts of the cage that the animal can gnaw through are recommended to be upholstered with iron sheets.

Tools and materials

The rabbitry is constructed without the use of expensive equipment. Carpentry tools required. You may need a welding machine.

Manure removal should be provided in the rabbitry to simplify cleaning up after pets and prevent the development of diseases. Usually a wooden pallet is installed under the mesh floor.

The basis of the cage is a tree that pets can gnaw through. Therefore, during construction, they additionally use:

Metal mesh for doors and part of the cage.
Metal corners.
Slate, roofing material, metal leaves, wooden planks to create a roof.
The grid on the cells is fixed with a clamp.

Cells consist of several parts, for each of which they use their own materials.

The base of the structure is made of wood.
To create a floor, a metal mesh or wooden slats are used.
For the manufacture of walls (except for the front) use wooden boards. It is not recommended to use plywood, since the material is not moisture resistant, less durable.
The front part is made of metal mesh. Iron material is used if reinforcing compounds or anti-rust paint were used in its manufacture.
For the roof, not very heated material is used (roofing material, slate sheets, wood). Decking is used to construct cages under a canopy.

How to choose a seat

The construction of a rabbitry begins with the selection of a suitable location.

According to building codes, the construction of buildings for animals is allowed at a distance of 15 m from a residential building.

The main criteria for choosing a place:

It is recommended to carry out construction on a site that is not subject to flooding and excessive moisture. Choose a site located at an incline or on a hill so that water and melting snow flow down.
Minimal wind exposure is an important site selection criterion. Rabbits are susceptible to drafts, so to protect the health of pets, you should choose a place that is not blown by the winds, or additionally enclose the room. Trees can serve as protection.
You should not build a rabbitry on groundwater. Deposits should be located at a depth of at least 1.5 m.
The land must be suitable for construction: not too loose and loose.
It is not recommended to install the rabbitry near the road, industrial facilities and noise sources.

It is necessary to select a site for construction as close as possible to the ideal. In the absence of the possibility of choosing such a site, it is necessary to compensate for the shortcomings with improvised means or additional equipment.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

Building a rabbitry on your own seems like a daunting task. But with a competent approach and diligence, you can make a high-quality design in a short period of time. It is recommended to use following algorithm construction:

Warming

The comfortable temperature for keeping rodents is from 10 to 20 degrees. Therefore, it is recommended to insulate the room for the winter period or transfer summer structures to a heated building.

As insulation, door trim with plywood sheet or glazing is used. The walls are insulated with foam. Lay on the floor extra layer hay.

As alternative way use the construction of a special heated room. The barn is installed on the foundation and constructed of wood or brick. The main criterion for construction is the absence of drafts.

Feeding equipment and shelves are made from natural materials, giving preference to wood. It is not recommended to use plastic utensils due to toxicity.

Food containers are placed along the wall at a distance convenient for feeding all individuals. The container with water is located on the side wall.

Almost every owner of a country house has a small farm. Someone prefers to breed big cattle, someone is a bird, and someone likes to deal with fluffy and charming rabbits. But for any economy it is worth considering comfortable conditions of detention. If you opted for rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance on the place of installation of the cages, their size and internal content.

On your own backyard, cages with livestock can be placed:

outdoors;
indoors, such as a barn.

All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:

year-round outdoor accommodation;
year-round maintenance indoors;
combined maintenance (in the summer in the open air, in the winter - in the barn).

Many breeders believe that the best option placement of cells is their arrangement in the open air. Such content has a positive effect on animals, contributes to the development of immunity to diseases, the presence of a beautiful and high-quality hairline. Farming in outdoor conditions increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and contributes to their endurance.

When choosing a place to install a cage, it is worth considering:

air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from water bodies;
exposure to direct sunlight, which negatively affects animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
the presence of drafts, which are a common cause of rabbit diseases. Air movement must not exceed 30 m/s. Do not forget about high-quality ventilation in the cages. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.

street cages

All rabbit cages may differ in:

sizes;
structures;
manufacturing materials.

They are simple, bunk with additional amenities, such as heating. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm depends largely on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.

The advantages of arranging rabbitries on the street include:

the presence of a large space;
convenience in caring for animals;
the ability to build convenient and affordable designs.

For the construction of street cages, you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden changes in temperature.

Important: the cage for rabbits must protect animals from predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, rats.

To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct sunlight and precipitation, make a canopy with a large visor over the building. If you are breeding animals all year round, you need to take care of warming one of the parts of the cage. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate low air temperatures well, it is necessary for them to create a cozy and warm place where they can bask.

Important: special attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and the department with small rabbits.

Cells placed indoors

Structures placed in sheds can be made from a single metal mesh fixed on a wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.

If you are raising rabbits indoors, it should be:

well plastered;
ventilated;
illuminated in winter - at least 10 hours.

It would be nice if on the south side of the barn there was a window on the entire wall.

Combined breeding option for rabbits

For the combined version of breeding animals, mobile cages are most suitable. In the warm season, it will be convenient to take them out into the street, and in the cold season - to install them indoors.

If funds allow, two variants of cages can be made: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this option is unlikely to suit those who breed a large number of animals.

Cell design and size

Cages for rabbits are single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (kindergarten, young animals, adults), their design depends.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.

Important: if the cages are located on the street, it is better to cover them with slate, as the metal heats up very much, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.

For the convenience of caring for animals, it is better to make a pallet with a chute for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures, metal pallets are installed for pet waste.

Multi-tiered cages can consist of two or more tiers. Each tier contains the required number of sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for both outdoor and indoor rabbitry construction.

Tiered items are often referred to as sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps save space. The ideal option is two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.

When building multi-tiered cages, there should be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. A metal roof must be installed above each cage, and sloping ebbs should be installed in the space between each tier. This is necessary so that the animal waste does not fall on the lower tiers, does not linger on the roof, but flows into drains specially arranged behind the cages.

Some prefer to use removable plastic pallets in cages. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on skids under the slatted floor.

Cells for okrol

In cages for kindling, it is necessary to install special cameras on the sides or provide a place for a mobile mother liquor. If you opted for a stationary department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden blocks.

The mobile mother liquor is a completely closed box with an entrance hole. This box should have an additional side door so that the mother liquor can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged as needed in different cells. They are also much more convenient to change the bedding and clean up. The building is insulated for rounding with shavings or hay.

If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile mother liquor should be placed in an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for a rabbit a few days before the addition.

In winter, it is almost impossible to do without heating the uterine department. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use an ordinary light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment that is located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.

Attention: having stopped the choice on heating the mother liquor with an electric light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.

There is another method of heating this part of the cage using a heating cable for underfloor heating. It is fixed at the bottom of the mother liquor, and a removable floor panel is laid on top of it.

Important: giving preference to such heating, make sure that the cable is intact, without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to adjust the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on the weather conditions.

If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them on the street. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it must be removable.

In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth should be 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.

Cages for young animals

Young rabbits are called rabbits, aged from three to five months. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the walls of the cages must be at least 35 cm. The total area is calculated based on the fact that one animal should be 0.25 square meters.

Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise from the ground by 75 cm. If the floor is made of wooden bars, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. Thus, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw at the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.

In winter, cages with young animals must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.

Cage for adult rabbits

Cages for adult rabbits of medium size should be 60-70 cm deep and 100 cm long. These are the minimum dimensions for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made according to the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.

For mating animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, the floor is recommended to be made of galvanized mesh.

Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

Cages with an aviary for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. Such a design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance carved into the rear wall of the structure. Thanks to the convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which favors their proper development and growth.

The size of the cage with a paddock can be any. Well, if its depth will vary within 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh aviary is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.

Cages for giant rabbits

Since the giant breed belongs to large rabbits, the cages for them must also have the appropriate size. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of animals.

For one adult, a cage is needed, with dimensions: 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.

For young giants, housing can be a little easier. Eight animals need a cage with an area of 1.2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.

Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should first be strengthened. In the manufacture of a mesh floor, preference is given to a thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to fix the bars under it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber pallets in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them.

Cage for California rabbits

Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adult individuals reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since the paws of this breed are covered with hard hair, the floor can be made slatted or mesh.

If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole that is 200 by 200 cm in size and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should be pre-strengthened with slate, and lay boards or a grid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and a roof are being built around the pit. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible, and gives good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. With proper care, they will delight the owners with numerous offspring.

Making cells with your own hands

Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, it is necessary to decide in advance on the type of construction, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:

hacksaw;
a hammer;
corner;
plane;
screwdriver.

Any type of cage will consist of: frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, in the construction of houses for these animals, a metal mesh or natural wood is used.

As for materials for construction, you should prepare:

large sheets of plywood;
slate;
nails and screws;
bars;
slats;
galvanized mesh.

For the manufacture of doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.

Having chosen a tree as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits grind their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply gnaw their homes.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

In addition to building cells, you need to carefully consider them internal arrangement. Food and water should be supplied to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be either purchased ready-made in the store or made on your own.

Rabbits need plenty of clean water every day. If you simply pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinker, you should decide on its:

manufacturing materials;
location;
volume;
construction type.

Attention: if the drinker is made of thin plastic, the animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans, the water will become cloudy and polluted.

Automatic drinkers

Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of living creatures. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.

The principle of operation of this drinker is quite simple: as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion from the container enters it.

Attention: making such a drinker with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to buy it ready-made in the store.

Nipple drinkers

Nipple designs are practical and comfortable. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.

Vacuum drinker

A vacuum drinking bowl can be easily built with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:

A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10 cm from the floor on the cage so that one half of it is inside the structure, and the other is outside.
We take a simple plastic bottle of one or two liters and draw water into it. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We fasten the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
Carefully unscrew the lid, and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinker, it will be replenished with new liquid up to a certain level.

Choke drinker

The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the lid and attach a throttle. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and block the hole in the cover.

The drinker is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended in a horizontal position on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. For the manufacture of this design in the bottle, it is necessary to make a cutout, 10 cm wide along the entire length, stepping back only 5 cm from the bottom and the lid of the product.

The hanging drinker is attached outside the cage - with a cut hole inward.

feeders

It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed rabbits with:

With the right approach to breeding rabbits, you can achieve high results. If the cages are built in accordance with all norms and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, they will quickly develop and gain weight.