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Made of metal, which means that sooner or later it will begin to be exposed to harmful effects moisture with oxygen and will rust. This is one of the most annoying features of metal.

To slow down the manifestations of corrosion, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the car's paintwork and eliminate the defects that have appeared in time.

But in any case, the time will come when it will be necessary to remove rust from a car, and this article will help you learn how to do it yourself.

Where does the problem occur

The main places for the initial appearance of traces of corrosion are:

• wheel arches;
• thresholds;
• the front edge of the hood and the edges of the trunk lid;
• bottom;
• floor in the driver's seat;
• places of contact of linings with metal elements of the body.

Rust can be divided into several types, traces determine its nature, and the method of elimination must be chosen, guided solely by its characteristics. The main types are dry and wet. Dry appears when the car is in a warm room. With dry corrosion, the metal parts of the car take on a dark color, and they will need an anti-corrosion coating. Wet arises from the constant contact of the car with moisture. This is especially facilitated by the adhering dirt on the body of the car, inside which for a long time humidity is maintained. It is this type that carries the greatest danger to the metal.

Over time, due to rust, the paint begins to peel off the places where the metal is damaged, and measures will need to be taken to eliminate it. Just painting over the damaged area will not work, the paint will peel off the car very quickly.

AT winter time car owners contribute to the appearance of rust on the body by putting it in a warm room where there is no proper ventilation.

This leads to some types of corrosion.

Types of corrosion

To eliminate rust from a car body, it is necessary to correctly determine its type, of which there are several options:

• Cosmetic. This view appears at the junction of plastic parts with metal. In the initial manifestation of corrosion in these places, it is easily eliminated and cannot lead to more unfortunate consequences. But if you do not react in time, rust can move to the next stage.
• Underfilm. It arises and grows under the paintwork. When it appears, the paint begins to swell over the lesion. Eliminating the focus is quite simple, and if you do not do this, then it will move to the next stage.
• Spot. This type of pitting is the last type before penetrating. It flows from small points that rapidly hit the metal in depth. If the type of pitting is not removed in time, this will lead to sad consequences for the car.
• Through type of rust. This is the last stage in which the metal is severely destroyed and becomes soft. To remove places with a lesion from a car, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort.
• Spotted type of corrosion. It is very extensive in area, and there are not many places of its occurrence on a car. Growing in breadth, the lesion will eventually lead to a through type. Eliminating such a problem is a rather time-consuming process using a specialized tool.

If any manifestations of rust are found on the body, it is worth immediately starting to eliminate it from the places of its formation, this will help extend the life of the car for a long time.

Repair methods and tools

To repair damage sites, you will need a specialized tool and a clean room where you can leave the car for several days. From the tool it is best to use:

• grinding machine;
• grinder;
• corset;
• sandpaper large 120 and small 600, 400;
• a welding machine or a set of fiberglass and epoxy resin;
• degreaser;
• sandblasting machine;
• rust converter;
• paint for cars;
• anti-corrosion primer;
• car putty.

If you have a dry and clean room, as well as the necessary skills, you can remove damage from the car yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals, which saves a lot of money.

The work is divided into several stages:

• Car washing and drying. This will help in identifying areas that need to be cleaned and painted. Many of them are difficult to access, so you will have to carefully inspect the cars for hidden places with a source of damage. After that, proceed to the next stage - cleaning.
• The easiest way to clean the hearth is with a tool: a grinder or a sandblaster. This will greatly facilitate the work of your own hands. The sandblasting machine will allow you to completely clean the metal of the car from corrosive traces, while maintaining its thickness. When using it, it is worth considering that the sand will scatter in all directions over a long distance. In the absence of a sandblaster, you will have to use a grinder or a grinder, which are also able to clean, but the thickness of the metal will decrease. Normal cleaning is done only in case of light damage. When the metal is rotten through, you will need to make metal patches. To process hard-to-reach places, you will have to use a brush and sandpaper.
• Deep damage is removed with a grinder. The rotten part is cut out, and the edges are cleaned. Next, a patch is made in size and, using spot welding, is placed in place of the cut out part. Weld seams must be sanded. In the absence of a welding machine, you can use a set of fiberglass with epoxy resin, with which to make patches.

Before starting any welding work it is necessary to disconnect the car battery, otherwise a short circuit may occur in the on-board network, which will lead to failure electronic systems management.

• Having finished the process of cleaning the metal parts of the car body, proceed to the next stage - preparation for painting. The entire properly cleaned surface is treated with a degreaser and a rust converter or anti-corrosion primer is applied.

It is necessary to carry out processing with the converter in gloves, in order to avoid damage to the skin of the hands.

• After applying it, you must wait a few hours and wash the converter from the car. Before painting the self-treated areas, they are leveled with putty. After applying the putty, it is necessary to wait for it to completely harden on the car and then proceed to grinding. Upon completion of this stage, the next one begins.
• Apply a primer in several layers. Before each new layer, a break is made for 15 minutes, during which time the primer dries. The primer, before painting the car, is treated with fine sandpaper. Now you can paint the car.
• The paint is selected according to a special code of the car or according to the color of its gas tank hatch. This business is best entrusted to professionals in the sale of auto cosmetics. The paint they pick up will not differ in color from the rest of the car. To apply it, you will need a pneumatic spray gun. With it, the paint will lay down in an even layer, and tinted places will not be visible. It is applied in several layers, taking breaks to dry each layer. It is necessary to spray the paint from a distance of about 25-30 centimeters from the surface, so it will not flow and leave no traces of smudges. Slightly damaged areas of the body with corrosion after its treatment can be tinted with special paint pencils. They are provided for these purposes, and tinting such places will be much easier.

The aggressive impact of many factors that affect the car during operation leads to the defeat of its body with rust. If you do not get rid of its foci in time, corrosion will spread, which will be difficult to stop. Therefore, the question of how to treat rust in order to protect the car body from it is relevant.

Peculiarities

This problem is especially important for models with weak anti-corrosion protection, which include VAZ cars. Most foreign car brands have more than high level rust protection, so the technology for its removal can be considered using the example of VAZ.

Moisture and chemically active substances are considered the main factors causing the formation of corrosion. The process of rust formation is greatly accelerated in the event of damage to the paintwork. Allocate body elements that are most susceptible to corrosion. First of all, they include parts that are under the influence of particles of dirt and water flying out from under the wheels, and are represented by thresholds and wheel arches. However, in VAZ vehicles, the anticorrosion protection of which is low, there are much more places subject to corrosion. Moreover, rust is formed not only outside, but also inside, for example, under door seals.

If the initially formed points are not treated, over time they will develop into a single spot and through corrosion will form. If the body is brought to such a state that through rust is present, its restoration will be more difficult.

Therefore, as soon as the first points of corrosion were noticed, it is necessary to repair them as soon as possible in order to stop its spread. The greater the percentage of the bodywork affected by rust and the more advanced it is, the more effort will be required to prevent it from increasing.

After the removal of rust particles, a special treatment of the damaged area is carried out in order to protect against re-corrosion. These works involve the restoration of the paintwork. How to remove rust on the body, read on /

Stages of work

Work to eliminate pockets of corrosion on the car body includes several stages:

• the body is cleaned of contaminants by washing;
• then it is properly dried;
• inspect for the presence of foci of corrosion;
• found rusty dots and spots highlight;
• after that, the body is prepared for work to remove corrosion;
• then the rusted areas are processed;
• the next stage is additional processing;
• after it, all areas must be covered with putty;
• the final stage consists in painting the treated areas.

Washing and drying

The VAZ body is cleaned manually or using washing devices. At the same time, both the body and the interior are washed, as well as the engine compartment and trunk. To increase the efficiency of work, special detergents- car shampoos that effectively remove salt, grease and other contaminants without damaging the paintwork.

It is advisable to combine washing with passing inspection for rust. The car is dried using fan heaters or simply left after wiping it, as drops during the drying process can leave stains on the surface.

Importance of Inspection

It is necessary to carefully inspect the body of the VAZ both outside and inside in order to detect all foci of corrosion. You need to do this in good light so that the slightest points of rust are visible.

During the inspection, attention is paid to areas that are most susceptible to corrosion damage. These include:

• doors;
• hood (especially in places of docking with surrounding body elements);
• wheel arches;
• thresholds.

Inside, they inspect the trunk, the back surface of the hood, the points under the seats and under the driver's feet, as well as under the door seals. Also pay attention to defects in the paintwork. Corrosion is often formed on metal elements that are not related to body parts, for example, on a number plate. Therefore, inspection should not be limited to the aforementioned areas. In cars whose anti-corrosion protection is weak, like in VAZ models, as well as in old cars, corrosion centers can be located not only in traditional places. The points found should be highlighted, for which adhesive tape is used.

In preparatory work, in order to avoid damage during the treatment of untouched rust areas of the body adjacent to its stains, it is necessary to use protection in the form of covers, awnings or polyethylene.

Rust removal

Rust spots and spots are removed using two methods: mechanical and chemical.

mechanical method

The basis of this technology is the cleaning of body corrosion with abrasive materials. As hand tools for removing rust, you can use sandpaper or a metal brush. In addition, the work can be simplified, as well as increase the speed and efficiency of their performance by using manual mechanical devices. Among the devices of this kind, grinders and sandblasters are suitable for removing rust.

If you do the work with sandpaper, at the initial stage, the cleaning is carried out with a coarse-grained sandpaper. In the future, it is necessary to clean with fine-grained material.

Treatment of a corroded body can be done dry or wet. The difference between the second technology and the dry method is that cleaning is carried out using white spirit or kerosene to moisten the working surface. If a metal brush is used to remove rust on the body, work must be done carefully, since the corroded metal is easily destroyed.

Cleaning the VAZ body from rust can be done using a grinder. In this case, use a type-setting grinding disc. In the process of work, it is necessary to get rid of a layer of rust 6-8 mm thick, after which the final cleaning of the working surface is carried out with fine-grained sandpaper. When removing rust on the body, it is necessary to completely get rid of traces of corrosion and bring the working surface of the VAZ body to a smooth state.

A highly effective tool that allows you to get rid of rust is considered a sandblasting machine. This device is high performance does not damage paintwork. In the case of using these tools, you should protect yourself from flying particles by using special painting goggles and gloves.

chemical method

This method involves the use of rust converters. These substances allow you to protect the body of the VAZ from its further spread.

• rust neutralizer VSN-1;
• orthophosphoric acid;
• zinc spray.

BCH-1 converts corrosion into a gray matter that can be easily removed from the body with a rag. Orthophosphoric acid is used to convert rust both on its own and as a component of many corrosion converters.

Zinc spray is used as a protection, as it forms a film of zinc particles on the treated area, which allows you to save intact body parts and stop rust from spreading.

As an example, consider the Zinkor-Auto kit, which includes a degreasing solution against rust and a solution for forming a protective coating. First, dots or spots of corrosion are treated with a converter to get rid of it. Then, the current from the battery is supplied to the working surface by the electrode, and zinc ions cover it.

Additional processing

After the initial treatment is completed and the rust on the body is removed, the surface is degreased. Then you need to cover the treated area with anti-corrosion primer. If after cleaning the body the factory primer is preserved, this stage is excluded. The primer is applied as protection, and also to increase adhesion of the paints and varnishes applied further.

Puttying and painting

Next, the work surface must be sealed with putty. After that, the treatment is carried out with a moisture-resistant sandpaper until the surface is leveled, and then the treated areas must again be sealed with a primer. For painting, choose the color corresponding to the original, usually by the paint number. Restoration of the paintwork should be done by applying the material with a spray gun in 3 layers.

Prevention

In order not to have to do the work described above, especially if the body is not yet affected by corrosion, it should be saved from the effects of the factors that cause it. Protection with the help of special auto chemicals will help stop them.

Protection of this kind is also represented by anti-gravel films. In addition, it is possible to increase the corrosion resistance, for which zinc protection or additional galvanization is used. It goes without saying that if there is through corrosion or at least spots on the body, they must first be repaired.

The performance of a vehicle depends on its performance. This indicator is associated with various conditions, one of which is the presence of rust. A rusty car is not able to fully perform its functions, and requires repair work. If the rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will grow until the car fails. Therefore, if corrosion is detected, it should be repaired as soon as possible.

Many car owners know little about corrosion. Rust occurs due to an electrochemical reaction, as a result of which the body shell gradually turns into iron oxide. Places affected by the reaction are covered with corrosion. The following are involved in the reaction:

• anode - a metal component of the body;
• electrolyte - water with a low salt content;
• cathode - a metal surface exposed to electrolytes.

Thus, if during use the vehicle periodically comes into contact with water, rust appears. In most cases, corrosion affects the areas of joints and chips.

Rust often occurs in winter period. This is due to the fact that the chemical renegades used by utilities contain salts that act as an electrolyte.

Types of corrosion

Body corrosion is divided into two types:

1. Dry. This type of rust occurs when the vehicle is stored in a dry place. Dry corrosion is characterized by tarnishing of the surface on the machine, but no visible focus is found. You can overcome dry rust with the help of special substances.
2. Wet. Occurs in the form of pronounced areas of damage to the surface. If the rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will increase. Piercing corrosion can cause serious damage.

Depending on the type of rust, the method of its elimination is chosen.

Appearance stages

Rust usually occurs after an accident. But under normal conditions, it is a natural process characterized by three stages:

• at the first stage, corrosion of the car affects the joints of parts - it is eliminated with sandpaper, or other improvised means;
• the second stage is known as "under-film" - it manifests itself as an emerging focus, surrounded by swollen paint;
• the third stage is characterized by damage to the metal body, and the appearance of holes in it - such damage to the metal can be eliminated with the help of a full restoration of the body.

In order to prevent the first stage from flowing into subsequent ones, the car is periodically inspected for chips, bumps, and paint color changes. If you notice in time when rust damage begins, serious problems can be prevented.

Corrosion of the painted surface

Paintwork is a protective coating for your car. The painted surface is protected from corrosion thanks to:

• water-repellent properties;
• low gas permeability;
• low vapor permeability.

At standard use car paintwork performance is gradually declining due to natural wear and tear. But sometimes the corrosion of the car body occurs for other reasons:

• when applying hardening paint, defects were made;
• pores have appeared in the paint film;
• the paint is applied in a thin film (fenders and other car elements that have bends are more likely to be affected by this problem).

Prolonged exposure to moisture on the vehicle coating causes negative consequences - damage to the paint appears. Many drivers do not know why in some cases it is better to store the car on the street than to hide it in the garage. If there is a high humidity in the car storage garage, it is recommended to put it on the street. Ventilation will slow down the wear of the paintwork.

Sand-salt mixture on the roads

Corrosion of the car during operation is accelerated due to the impact of the sand-salt mixture on the roads. In winter, utilities often use sand and salt, poured onto the road, to deal with ice. As the temperature rises, ice and snow melt to form water. It interacts with sand and salt, and forms a sand-salt mixture.

During operation, the mixture accumulates in damaged areas of the body, provoking the destruction of the paintwork. The body surface is left unprotected and corrosion occurs. The more sand-salt mixture gets into damaged areas, the more rust spreads. With prolonged exposure to the machine, great damage is done. To protect the car from corrosion on the body, special substances are used.

Types of corrosion control

Rust on the coating can be removed by hand. This task is carried out using:

• sandblasting machine or grinder (sandpaper is used as a budget counterpart);
• paper;
• masking tape;
• rags;
• rust converter (a special tool sold in auto parts stores);
• primers and fiberglass putty;
• rubber gloves;
• fiberglass set;
• paints and varnish.

The list of necessary fixtures varies depending on how badly the coating is affected by rust. It is recommended that tools and materials have a designation that allows their use for car processing. There are three types of corrosion control methods:

• passive - primer and paint are applied;
• active - mastics, sealants, anti-corrosion agents are used to fight rust;
• electrochemical - installation of an electronic device that transfers the occurrence of rust from the surface of the body to the electrode (rust removal by the electrochemical method requires serious costs).

The most common due to the low cost is the first method. Elimination of corrosion is carried out step by step:

• the car is cleaned of dust and dirt;
• rust is removed from damaged areas;
• the cleaned areas are treated with a rust converter (the action is performed with gloves);
• the site is treated with a primer;
• after the primer has hardened, paint and varnish are applied to the metal surface.

Body protection from manufacturers

To prevent the occurrence of rust on the car, manufacturers of modern Vehicle use their own protection. Before going on sale, the car undergoes anti-corrosion treatment. Most high quality body protection differs from German and Japanese manufacturers.

The most common factory protection options are:

• paints and varnishes;
• galvanization;
• anodizing.

The last method is the most reliable, and is provided with the help of special devices. Modern technologies help to avoid the recurrence of rust, but such devices are installed mainly only on expensive models.

Vehicles of serial foreign production are usually covered with a protective film or a layer of zinc after manufacture. But such coatings have a limited operational period. If the machine gets damaged, they will stop working.

Some firms use galvanizing in conjunction with special metals. But this practice does not apply to all cars.

Car storage conditions

Corrosion of metal on the car appears in damp conditions. The vehicle may be stored in a low humidity garage. The room must be ventilated and clean.

• install a heating system;
• completely free from contaminants;
• install a ventilation system.

Ways to extend the life of the body

Rust from the car is easy to remove with your own hands. But many do not know what to do to prevent it. To extend the life of the body, and prevent corrosion, you should follow a few tips. To combat corrosion, you can:

• treat the surface with water-repellent substances;
• apply a soundproofing agent to the coating;
• cover the body with a vinyl film that prevents scratches and chips;
• process the lower part of the body with auto wax;
• apply a protective film of zinc particles.

Galvanizing is expensive, so it is recommended to perform it as an additional step. Another expensive option is car protectors. If the machine already has rust, the described steps can only be carried out after restoration.

Are imported cars protected from corrosion?

Imported brands of vehicles are produced with additional protection. But it is temporary. Its operational period depends on the quality of the roads on which the car drives.

After a few years, the effect of protection decreases, due to which the machine becomes susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, in the presence of imported models, the same precautions are observed as when using domestic cars.

Red marks on the body of a car are a nuisance that every motorist faces. , it must be eliminated in the early stages, since it can rapidly destroy the metal up to holes. Today we will learn how to stop rust on a car body, and choose the most effective ways.

How to deal with red spots

Everything is in the hands of man, and even corrosion can be removed from the car body. Interesting? Still would! Remember, and better write down or save this article.

Preparation for work

By car, it starts with a trip to the car shop, where you have to buy the missing tools and special means. They will be necessary to remove pockets of corrosion from the body.

1. Sandpaper and holder for it. This set of tools is convenient to work on flat areas.
2. A circle for working with a grinder is necessary to remove the upper thin layer of metal.
3. A brush for working with metal should also be at hand. With its help it is convenient to work in hard-to-reach places.
4. But the rust neutralizer, this is the name of a special chemical agent, do not rush to take it. It’s not a fact that such auto chemicals can stop rust, but the paintwork will pretty much spoil it.

First stage

Now is the time to remove the rust and prepare the body of the car for the next steps. Thoroughly wash the rusted place and the nearest areas so that the lesions are clearly visible. We exclude the presence of through lesions on the body, which can be eliminated only by welding and by contacting the appropriate craftsmen.

If, nevertheless, such serious damage was not found on the body, then you can proceed to remove the rust. The most convenient way to do this is with a grinder and a special circle, but sandpaper is also suitable. True, the process will be somewhat delayed.

1. We clean places of formation of corrosion.
2. We carefully clean the affected surface of the car, removing layer by layer.
3. Along with this, it is necessary to smooth out all the irregularities that arise in the process of work.
4. The metal must be cleaned to a brilliant state.
5. Do not limit yourself to clearing an area with only a visible lesion. To stop the spread of corrosion, a slightly larger area must be treated.

In such a simple, but dusty and lengthy way, you need to remove all the rust that dared to appear on your car. If you have to work with large areas, then you need to be careful when scraping off the metal so that further aesthetic restoration is not accompanied by problems.

Ordinary tools that were at hand, and standard materials used for other work, should not be used for such a delicate matter, so as not to aggravate the situation. Use only special automotive tools and expendable materials when dealing with such damage.

We prime

When all the previous steps are completed and you have managed to clean up to the last millimeter, you can do appearance car. Here it is also worth adhering to a clear work plan and following the recommendations of specialists:

1. Using a conventional solvent, we degrease all parts of the body that have been damaged by rust.
2. We prepare putty according to the recommendations indicated by the manufacturer on the package. For this you need a hardener. The finished mixture is applied to the cleaned area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe car with a thin layer.
3. We wait half an hour and start working with sandpaper, trying to achieve a smooth surface without sagging and other defects. 80-grit paper is best suited for this process.
4. This is followed by final puttying and thorough grouting with hundredths of grit paper.

Now you need to carefully examine the result obtained for the absence of any flaws. If defects were identified, then another layer of putty is required.

We paint

Ideally puttied places of the car, previously affected by corrosion, can be painted. This process is also carried out in several stages:

1. We wash the area around the restored area using sandpaper with 600 grit. This requires a constant supply of water.
2. We paste over the working area in order to prevent staining of other elements of the machine. To do this, you need to use masking tape and newspapers (film).
3. Cleaning of the working area, its complete drying and thorough degreasing.
4. Staining, drying and polishing.

Worth taking seriously. Its shade must be chosen carefully and correctly. If you do not have the opportunity to color with a compressor, then it is permissible to use paint in a cylinder. It must be of very high quality and professionally selected. In this case, you can avoid highlighting the colored area, swelling and other troubles.

Chemical converters

Another way has appeared that allows you to stop the development of corrosion at a lower time and cost. It's called a rust converter. You can find such a miracle of the chemical industry not only in automotive stores, but also on the shelves of construction and household markets. The choice of such substances is rather big, but they are all divided into two groups according to the principle of operation:

1. Orthophosphoric acid or zinc compounds react with the affected area, blocking air access to it and after a while turn into a kind of putty. It is necessary to work with such substances with gloves and in a room with good ventilation.
2. Another group of substances does not provide for the formation of putty, instead they are in a substance that lags behind the metal and is easily removed from the machine.

To use such modifiers or not is a private matter for each car owner. The effectiveness of chemicals is still in some doubt, and the effectiveness of the puttying method has been proven for years.

Here are some ways to prevent the spread of corrosion and eating through the metal through it. Such work should be performed at the very initial stages of rust formation - this is in the interests of every motorist. You already know how to stop rust on a car, it remains not to start this problem and heal your car from a red scourge in a timely manner.

Rust is the worst enemy of any car body. It causes a process of corrosion that is detrimental to the metal. If timely measures are not taken to eliminate it, there will be through holes on the surface, and the body will lose not only its appearance, but also its strength. Corrosion appears in the most different places. Today we will look at ways to remove rust from a car body and the technology for its elimination.

Where and why does it appear?

Various "saffron mushrooms" begin to appear in places of the so-called sandblasting. This is the inner part of the arches, places behind the mudguards, thresholds. The bottom also suffers, especially in winter. Chemical reagents (salt, sand) settle on the metal surface, provoking corrosion processes.

The bodies that are least susceptible to rust are hot-dip galvanized and galvanized. But in the event of an accident, the bare area is open to access external factors- water, sand, etc. Therefore, in the event of an accident, one should not hesitate to restore the integrity of the body. Otherwise, the metal will rot.

Removal methods

There are only two methods by which you can remove rust from a car body with your own hands:

• Mechanical.
• Chemical.

The essence of the first method is cleaning, priming and puttying the surface with its further painting. This method is perfect in advanced cases, when rust is well ingrained into the metal. By mechanical processing, iron is cleaned to a shine. But at the same time its thickness decreases.

The second method involves the use of aggressive substances. During the work, a special liquid is used to remove rust from the car body. This is orthophosphoric or any other zinc-filled acid.

What's better?

What method fit better Total? There is no single answer to this question. It all depends on the scale and neglect of the corrosion process. If you have small mushrooms, they can be eliminated by the second method. Removing rust with phosphoric acid from a car body - best option for such a situation. But if the rust is well ingrained into the metal and sits tightly under the paintwork, which has already reared up, mechanical intervention is indispensable.

Well, let's look at how rust is removed from a car body with both methods.

mechanical cleaning. Preparation of tools and materials

Here we need a whole set, namely:

• Sandpaper of varying degrees of grit (from the finest to the largest).
• Solvent.
• Converter.
• Grinding tool. It can be a drill or a grinder with an appropriate abrasive nozzle.
• Anticorrosive primer.
• Pieces of clean rags.
• Putty with hardener.
• License plate paint and clear lacquer. You can order ready-made, in cans according to the code that is on the stamping of the body.
• Masking tape and film (or a lot of newspapers).

We also note that do-it-yourself rust removal from a car body can be done using a sandblaster. Sand particles under pressure displace rust from the surface, and it becomes perfectly clean. But the trouble is that with a one-time use, this device does not pay off. Therefore, when self repair many use a drill or a grinder with an abrasive nozzle.

Getting Started

First we need to wash the area from dirt and degrease with a solvent. It can be gasoline or white spirit. Next, we put a nozzle with an abrasive on a drill or grinder and process the damaged area. You need to drive the tool slowly, without sudden movements. Try to avoid deep scratches and transitions.

In the absence of such tools, do-it-yourself rust removal from the car body can be done manually. To do this, we take a wooden block in our hands and wrap it in sandpaper. We begin to grind the surface in a circular motion. Why can't you work with sandpaper directly, with your hands? The fact is that with such processing there will be strong transitions along the paintwork, since the difference in finger pressure is significant.

When processing, gradually increase the grain size of the paper (up to two thousand). So we can smooth out the transitions that will be evident after painting the repaired surface, as in this case:

If the rust is deep, don't be afraid to remove it along with the metal layer. If corrosion is not completely eliminated, all work will go down the drain. Moreover, "saffron mushrooms" will appear somewhere in 3-6 months after painting. Therefore, it is so important to provide the most shiny, clean surface. Then we treat it with special chemicals to remove rust from the car body (with a converter).

Alignment of defects

No matter how hard we try to process the site with high quality, there will still be small irregularities. Perhaps they are not so visible on the cleaned surface, but when painting, all defects will come out. Therefore, we can not do without putty. We mix it with the hardener (which comes with the kit) and apply a thin layer on the surface. We remove the excess with sandpaper, after wrapping it in the same bar. At the end, we process with the most fine-grained sandpaper and go through the solvent again. It will remove the remaining pollen from the putty. Then you can safely proceed to painting and varnishing. Do not forget to pre-apply anti-corrosion primer.

chemical method

Unlike the first one, it is simpler and does not require repainting the damaged element. But let's just point out the downside. this method- time of action. No matter how expensive rust remover is used, it can only protect for 4-6 weeks. This is the main disadvantage. Otherwise, electrochemical rust removal from a car body has only pluses:

• Speed ​​of action. Rust is removed after 1-2 hours after application of the product.
• No need for painting. Chemistry acts locally, without affecting the factory layer of paintwork.
• No need for specialized tools. We do not need a drill, a grinder, a bunch of nozzles, a sandblasting unit, and even a basic set of sandpaper.

How is chemical removal done? First, the surface is washed from dust and dirt, and also degreased. Next, a rust remover is applied to the area. It could be:

• "Rust destroyer B-52".
• "Zincor".
• Orthophosphoric acid.
• Or any other converter products of your choice.

It is better to buy funds in the form of a spray. So the chemistry lies on the surface as evenly as possible, besides, there is no need to dip and rub everything with a rag. According to the instructions, you need to leave the site for 1-2 hours.

Next, the surface is re-degreased with a clean rag. It absorbs all the rust from the site well. If the corrosion is very deep, repeat this procedure again. Practice shows that in this way it is possible to effectively remove traces of rust without significant expenses, painting and mechanical intervention.

How to prolong the effect?

After applying the agent, a protective zinc layer forms on the surface. But he will not be able to provide long-term protection for a long time. The only way prolong the effect - varnish the surface. So we will completely protect it from the external aggressive environment. But it is worth remembering that in visible areas (hood, doors, and so on) there will be noticeable transitions in varnish. Therefore, it is not always reasonable to use this method.

It is better to treat rust with chemistry more often. Moreover, the method does not require much time and effort from you. After application, you can go about your business - the acid itself will corrode all the accumulated rust.

Conclusion

So, we found out in what ways you can overcome corrosion in a car. In order not to encounter such problems, experts recommend washing the car more often (including in winter, as salt accumulates on the arches and bottom) and perform anti-corrosion treatment if the car is not new. Another effective method prevention - applying an anti-gravel protective film. It is transparent and does not spoil the look of your car in any way.