Agree, metal products (knives, blades, amulets ...) look much more beautiful if they are decorated with patterns and ornaments. But how to apply a pattern on a metal surface? Engraving? This method is also possible, but there are several more. One of them is called - artistic electrochemical metal etching.
In this article, you will learn how to decorate a knife blade. The whole process is described below from drawing a sketch to the metal etching process at home.

Development and drawing

Sketch

A plot drawing, a floral ornament, a logo or just a phrase - this is just a small list of drawing ideas that will be beautifully imprinted on the blade. Choose what pattern you want to see on the blade and start sketching. You can draw yourself or ask professionals.

Then you need to transfer the drawing to the blade. To do this, we place the blade in the scanner, transfer the image to the CorelDraw program, where we outline the outlines of the blade. Next, we impose a suitable ornament. The result should be duplicated in mirror image and sent to print.

Blade varnishing and pattern transfer

The blade must be varnished in advance. You can use a matte varnish for plastic models-copies. The varnish must be diluted with a nitro thinner to dry faster, and applied with an airbrush (you can also use a brush). The varnish is used because it retains plasticity during the day and does not crumble under the scrubber.

We cut out the sketch to make it easier to fit it to the blade, “blacken” the reverse side with a pencil, and attach it to the blade with masking tape. After we draw an ornament with a thin pen. The result is a drawing on varnish.

Scratching a pattern

We scratch the pattern on the surface of the varnish with the help of scrubbers with various sharpening. It is important that the metal of the scrubber is not harder than the metal of the blade, otherwise there will be scratches.

Drawing features

In our example, the “field” is etched (this is the most difficult option, since it is more difficult to scratch the drawing), although a more accessible option is also possible when only the contours of the drawing are etched.

Metal pickling

You can use a variable transformer, for example, from a toy railway. It will be an adapter for a mini drill, which is indispensable for fine work. The maximum voltage is 12V, which is more than enough. Heat-shrinkable cambric serves as insulation.
Flannel: Copper/brass plate - approximately 100/7 mm.

We start electrochemical metal etching by putting the fabric on the plate and soaking it all in saline solution (do not spare salt). After we start to poison - with quick touches, you should not hold it for a long time, because. varnish may overheat.

Result

The described method of metal etching at home is good because it is easier to control the process here, in contrast to etching in a “whole” vessel. You just need to go through the drawing several times (earlier we advise you to practice on draft blanks so as not to spoil the blade). When the drawing has a finished look, turn off the unit and wipe the blade with a solvent. Actually, this is the method of artistic metal etching.

Based on materials from the site: namuradan-k.se-ua.net

Drawing a picture on a knife (etching). By order.

The young man brought a folding knife. He said: "I want ...".
Hohoha meant:
— remove scratches;
- harden (if necessary);
- polish;
- polish;
- sharpen;
- put an inscription or drawing on the blade.

It was originally a folding knife "Magnum". Quite a well-known and "untwisted" brand. This is what it looked like folded up.

Photo of the other side of the knife.

This is how the Magnum looked in the open position.

View of the other side of the knife.

Let's start fulfilling the customer's wishes. We disassemble the knife.

There are much fewer parts in a folding knife than in an automatic knife - a throwaway. This has a positive effect on its reliability. In addition, the knife has its own brand, made more accurately than the Chinese "nonames". Sanding is cleaner. Heat treatment of the blade, in my opinion, is not required. The blade of the knife has sufficient hardness. And adding a couple of Rockwell units on a folding knife, and thereby increasing the fragility of the blade, is unreasonable. Therefore, we do without hardening and immediately proceed to rough and fine grinding. This process is detailed in other articles on the site. For example: or How to improve a Chinese-made knife (part 2).
There are plenty of photographs with comments. I post only the result.

In the photo, the blade is already polished. This is necessary for further etching of the pattern. The better the polishing of steel, the less underetching will be. That is, the acid during the etching of the pattern will not seep through the irregularities of the blade or poorly polished risks under the protective coating. In addition, high-quality polished steel resists corrosion better.

Next stage. We come up with a drawing that will be on the blade.
I came up with an eagle, the customer came up with a commemorative inscription, then I came up with fire, and the customer came up with a panther ... Sketches, sketches, Email, telephone dialogues... Quite a long and fascinating process... As a result of joint inventions, a fiery eagle was invented.

We circle the blade with a pencil, aim with a drawing and ...

... pay attention in time to the fact that the side of the blade is not the same. The photo shows that next to the hole for the axial screw, there are two more holes of a smaller diameter. They are needed to attach the pocket clip to the knife body. She will close the drawing in this part of the handle. An eagle on a blade is flying somewhere. Here is an image of this “somewhere” clip and could close it. Well, at least I noticed in time ... The drawing must be done on the other side of the blade.

We cover the “correct” side of the blade with a protective coating. This is a tricky varnish with a tricky name. Inexpensive but decent quality.

After the varnish has dried, we scratch the drawing of an eagle over it.
But before that, we train again on paper. I draw without carbon paper and various devices. A little hand trembled - and the drawing is ruined. I would have to start all over again. So it's better to practice. In addition, he noticed his mistake again in time. The eagle's beak is longer and more angular. And on the back of the head is a small crest. In the previous drawing (on the wrong side of the blade), I lost sight of it ... Not a proud fiery eagle, but an angry scorched dove could have settled on the blade.

We completely cover the blade with construction tape and varnish, so that the acid etches only the pattern without damaging the wedge itself. Then we send the blade to a jar of acid.

I didn't take any pictures of the etching process. Firstly, it was necessary to take off rubber gloves (no one canceled safety precautions). And secondly, while you are jumping around the can with a camera, you can miss the right moment and the acid will “eat up” too much, the drawing will turn out to be too deep and loose inside the grooves. Here is the result of etching. The blade has already been washed and cleaned.

But the photo shows one of the petals of the flame (closer to the tip) with a yellow coating. Before etching this blade (from of stainless steel), I etched brass with the same acid. Dissolved copper from brass sat on the steel of the blade. The photo is not of very good quality, but visually - the effect was quite beautiful. Why copper sat on only one petal - I don’t understand ... If anyone has come across such a curious effect and shares their thoughts, I would be very grateful. It would be very beautiful if the tips of all flame petals had the same golden hue. I will experiment...

Now we etch the very “somewhere” on the knife handle where the eagle flies. The fiery element to which he aspires... Or returns... I didn't ask him.
The process is similar. Degreasing, varnishing, drying, scratching with a cunning scratcher, etching, cleaning. Here is the result.

Now, with a very fine sandpaper, we remove the copper coating from the petal, grind the blade, grind the butt of the blade, grind the handle, grind the entire knife around the perimeter. It will look like this in the future.

We polish the wedge, the handle, the knife itself along the perimeter and, in general, everything that can shine.
Let's see what happened.

Partially assemble the knife. Straighten the cutting edge. Decrease its angle. We sharpen. We make the knife vicious and sharp. If you go back a few images, you can see the difference between the cutting edge before and after sharpening.

We collect the knife finally.

We bring it "to the razor".

We admire the polishing of one side of the knife.

We consider the reflection in the figure from the other side.

Putting down the knife.

Compare: what it is now and what it was before.

Everything.
The knife is ready.
Hair shaves.
The wish is done.
The customer is satisfied.

The removal of part of the surface layer of a metal product by a chemical reaction is called etching. This technology has been known to man for several millennia, along with chasing and blackening, it was used to finish metal parts of weapons and household utensils, jewelry and ritual items. Nowadays, metal etching is used in art crafts, for electroplating, for creating images and inscriptions on metal products.

The essence of the method

Before etching, on those parts of the metal surface that should not be etched, a protective coating is applied that is resistant to the etching substance (mordant).

Next, the part is exposed to an acidic environment or immersed in a container with an electrolytic liquid. The longer the part is processed, the greater the layer of metal is corroded by the aggressive environment. Metal etching can be carried out in several stages, this is the so-called multilayer etching.

Etching of images on metal is carried out both in industrial and at home conditions.

Metal etching methods

Based on the materials used to corrode the metal layer, there are such methods of etching metals as:

• Chemical (liquid). Acid solutions are used. It does not require complex equipment and expensive materials. Vapors that are harmful to health are produced during operation.
• Electrochemical. An electrolyte solution is used and passed through it electricity. It is characterized by a higher speed of the process, more accurate execution of the details of the pattern, economical consumption of the working fluid. Does not produce harmful fumes
• Ion-plasma (dry). The surface layer is evaporated by an ionized plasma beam. Used in the production of microelectronic components.

The ion-plasma method requires high-precision and expensive equipment and is used only under conditions industrial production. Liquid method, electrochemical metal etching and even electrochemical engraving are available at home.

With the help of galvanic etching, you can independently make a printed circuit board that is almost as good as an industrial one.

Metal galvanic etching

The galvanic etching method compares favorably with the liquid etching method because it does not require the use of acids that produce harmful fumes. Depending on the workpiece material, different electrolytic solutions are used:

• Steel and iron - ammonia and iron sulfate
• Copper and its alloys (bronze, brass) - copper sulfate
• Zinc - zinc sulfate.

To carry out the process at home, you will need:

• Electroplating bath made of non-conductive material.
• Power supply for 5 volts DC.
• Metal cathode (from the same metal as the workpiece.)
• Wire hangers for workpiece and cathode. The workpiece should not touch the walls or bottom of the tub.
• Two conductive rods longer than the tub.

One rod is connected to the negative terminal of the power supply and the cathode is hung on it.

The other rod is connected to the positive terminal and a product is hung on it, which will serve as the anode.

When voltage is applied, the process of electrolytic transfer of metal from the product to the cathode begins. It will occur from areas of the surface that are not covered with a protective varnish.

Artistic metal etching

Artistic etching of metal is carried out both by galvanic and liquid methods.

Masters of folk crafts and just home craftsmen receive with its help highly artistic images on cold steel and firearms, all kinds of forged and cast utensils. For craftsmen who make author's hunting and household knives, etching has become an almost indispensable element of decoration. Hunting scenes, Arabic, runic or abstract geometric ornaments are especially popular. Many craftsmen combine metal etching with bluing, giving the pattern a bluish, black or yellowish tint.

To transfer images, both the method of varnishing the part and glossy paper. Another method is also used - gluing the part with tape. The lines of the pattern are scratched with a hot needle, after which the adhesive tape is carefully removed from the areas to be etched with tweezers. The remains of the adhesive mass must be washed off with a solvent.

Before pickling, the part must be thoroughly degreased.

Metal surface preparation

Before etching, the surface must be prepared. This will ensure:

• High process speed
• removal of metal in an even layer.

During surface treatment, all mechanical and chemical contaminants are removed from it. A warm soapy solution is used for it, any detergent. After the surface has dried, it must be wiped with a rag soaked in a solvent or degreaser. This will remove residual liquid and oil films.

Chemical processing is well combined with mechanical:

• mirror polishing
• sanding. Used when polishing is not available. It should be ensured that the skin moves in the same direction all the time and the traces of it are strictly parallel.

Machining will greatly improve appearance products after etching.

drawing

There are several methods for this operation. All of them are united general principle: protection of a part of the surface from the corrosive action of a mordant, but distinguishes the substance used to apply the pattern.

Nail polish

Popular and affordable way. Has some disadvantages:

• The high viscosity of the varnish makes it impossible to draw fine details and fine lines.
• Requires a steady hand and skill in drawing.
• It is very difficult to correct erroneously applied details.

Primer or bituminous varnish

The primer GF 021, XV 062 or bituminous varnish is used. First, the entire etched product is covered with the substance. Next, with a thin pen or marker, the contours of the drawing are transferred. From a thin wire or soft alloy rod, a needle should be made by sharpening the end of the wire.

Those areas of the image that should be etched are scratched to the metal. Care must be taken to ensure that the primer does not chip off.

Glossy paper

In addition to glossy paper (you can buy it at art supply stores, or you can just cut out a sheet from a magazine), you will need laser printer, an imaging application and an iron. The image of the picture should be mirrored and printed in full size. The image is applied to the surface and ironed several times. After the workpiece has cooled, the paper is washed off with warm water, and the toner remains on the surface of the part. The back and side surfaces that are not subject to etching must be protected with varnish or plasticine.

The main advantage of the method is that you can accurately transfer the smallest details of the image.

The main disadvantage is that you can only work with flat or cylindrical workpieces in this way. The method is very popular in the manufacture of printed circuit boards.

Steel Pickling

In addition to artistic metal etching, which allows obtaining exquisite images on steel surfaces, steel etching is also used to remove scale and oxide films. At the same time, special care must be taken to comply with the requirements technological process in everything related to the concentration of pickling solutions and the exposure time of the part in the pickle or in the electrolyte bath. Overetching during such an operation is highly undesirable.

When pickling steel, both liquid and electrochemical methods are used. Pickling is prepared on the basis of strong acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric. Particular attention should be paid to thorough degreasing of the surface. A missed oil or grease stain can render the workpiece unusable. To protect parts of the workpiece that are not subject to etching, I use varnishes based on rosin, turpentine, and tar.

These components are flammable, so when working with varnish, you should be especially careful and careful. At the end of etching, the unetched parts of the workpiece are cleaned of the protective varnish with a solvent.

Picklings used for steel

Nitric acid is very popular among home craftsmen - picklers. It is used as the only basis for pickling, and mixed with tartar or salt. A metal pickling solution based on a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acid is very reactive and must be handled with extreme care.

For the treatment of hard and special steel grades, mixtures of nitrogen and acetic acid. The processing is carried out in two stages. First, a special preliminary dressing is prepared - glyphogen, which is a mixture of water, nitric acid and ethyl alcohol. In it, the part is kept for several minutes. Next, the workpiece is washed with a solution of ethyl alcohol in distilled water and dried thoroughly. After that, the main etching is carried out.

Sulfuric acid solutions of medium concentrations are used for pickling cast irons.

Pickling of non-ferrous metals

Based on their atomic weight and the physical and chemical properties substances, for each metal and alloy, they select their own, best affecting it, mordant.

Both pure copper and copper alloys are pickled using sulfuric, hydrochloric, phosphoric, and nitric acid. Chromium or nitrogen compounds are added to the solutions to increase the reaction rate. In the first stage of pickling, scale is removed from the workpiece and oxide film, then proceed to the actual etching of the metal. Care must be taken when pickling copper at home.

Aluminum and alloys based on it are distinguished from other metals by the fact that not acidic, but alkaline solutions are used for their etching. For molybdenum, alkaline solutions based on caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide are also used.

Titanium stands even more apart - at the first stage of preliminary pickling, alkali is used, and at the main stage, acid is already used. For titanium, I use the strongest acids - hydrofluoric and concentrated sulfuric and nitric. Titanium blanks are pickled to remove the surface layer of oxides immediately before being electroplated.

To pickle metals such as nickel or tungsten, an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and formic acid is used.

PCB etching

The blank for the printed circuit board is a textolite sheet, coated on one or both sides with a layer of copper foil. The purpose of etching printed circuit boards is to create conductive traces of copper foil exactly according to the drawing. The tracks are covered with a protective varnish, the rest of the foil is removed by etching.

At home, it uses several methods:

1. Ferric chloride. The reagent is purchased at a chemical supply store or made independently. AT hydrochloric acid iron filings should be dissolved. Before use, the solution should be kept until the iron is completely dissolved and mixed thoroughly.
2. Nitric acid.
3. An aqueous solution of sulfuric acid mixed with hydrogen peroxide tablets.
4. Copper sulphate with the addition of hot water and sodium chloride. This option is the safest, but also the longest. Throughout the entire process, the temperature of the pickle must be maintained at least 40 ° C, otherwise the pickling will last for many hours.
5. electrolytic method. You should take a dielectric container (cuvettes are well suited for developing photographs), fill it with a solution table salt, place the board and a piece of copper foil there, which will serve as the cathode.

After etching with a liquid method, the board should be thoroughly rinsed with a solution of soda to extinguish the remaining acid.

Pickling process for other materials

In addition to metals, other materials are subjected to etching operations. Glass etching is most common for decorative purposes. Etching is carried out in vapors of hydrofluoric acid, the only one capable of dissolving glass. At the stages of preparation, a preliminary acid polishing of the surface of the product is carried out, then the contour of the future image is transferred to it. Protective coatings for glass are made from a mixture of wax, rosin and paraffins. After applying a protective coating, the workpiece is dipped into a pickling container.

The use of hydrofluoric acid creates a beautiful matt structure on the surface. To obtain a smooth, transparent surface, concentrated sulfuric acid. To obtain a relief, deep pattern, the operation is repeated.

Pickling Safety

In metal etching, extremely chemically active substances are used - strong acids, alkalis and their solutions. If handled incorrectly, they can cause serious bodily harm and significant property damage.

Therefore, when working with them, special precautions must be observed and the safety rules must be strictly observed during work:

• Work is carried out only in the presence of good ventilation, preferably a fume hood.
• Mandatory use of funds personal protection: rubber gloves and apron, thick industrial clothing, respirator, protective face shield.
• Do not place jars with acids and alkalis on high shelves and cabinets.
• During the dilution of acids, ACID is poured into WATER, and never - water into acid.
• When working with an acid, have a soda solution on hand, and when working with an alkali, a weak vinegar solution to wash skin areas that accidentally got drops of the solution.
• When working with the galvanic method, before starting work, carefully inspect all electrical equipment used for the absence of mechanical damage and the integrity of the insulation.
• Have a proper fire extinguisher handy.

In case of skin contact with pickling solution, immediately wash the affected area with an appropriate neutralizing solution. If acid or alkali splashes on clothing, it should be removed immediately.

If the pickling solution gets on the mucous membranes, you should immediately contact for medical care. Delay in such cases can cost health or even life.

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving, it makes the whole process much easier. You can get a picture as a concave - embossed, and a convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical and galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

You need to take a power supply or a transformer that can output from 4 to 7 V. In addition, you need a dielectric bath, it must contain the necessary part and a second metal object that is connected to the anode.

To carry out the etching of the pattern on the metal, it is necessary to use it as iron sulphate. If a drawing is needed on a copper or brass surface, then you can also use it. The main thing is that the water be distilled.

Preparing the part for etching

In order for the etching to be uniform and in the right places, the part must be cleaned of dirt and degreased. For more convenient operation, soldered to the part with tin copper wire, for it will be convenient to hold the object. To clean the surface, you need to lower the object to be converted into 10% sodium hydroxide, the temperature of which is 50 ° C, then into a 15% sulfuric acid solution and hold it there for two minutes, then rinse it in hot water. When the procedure is completed, the surfaces of the object will be completely cleaned, and of course, you cannot touch them with your hands.

Electrochemical etching of metal

We need to protect the places that shouldn't be pickled. To do this, it is necessary to apply a special mastic to these areas of the surface. It is made from three shares of wax and two - rosin, they are melted in a tin, stirring. After everything turns into a homogeneous mass, it is allowed to cool and divided into fragments. Each of them is placed in gauze, so that when pressed, as much mastic as necessary can seep through it. After that, the workpiece, which we will pickle, heats up. Now we take the created mixture, which was placed in gauze, and rub the surface with an even layer.

After cooling, the mastic becomes solid. From above it is covered with light water-soluble paint. It can be watercolor or gouache white. After that, the coating should dry. Then you can apply a drawing, it will hold well on the paint. It can be drawn with a pencil or translated through carbon paper. Then this contour must be scratched with a needle to the metal itself.

Now the etching of the metal by electrolysis begins, we connect one rod to the anode - plus, the other to the cathode - minus. To the first we connect the part on which the image will be applied, to the second any steel plate. After that, the process of etching the metal begins where the image was scratched.

If you need to create a multi-level drawing, everything is done in the same way as described above. Only the contours are checked every time, and when the smallest of them are etched to the prescribed depth, the part is removed and painted over with heated mastic using a brush. When it hardens, everything is repeated again until the next level of the drawing. In the process, an image is gradually created.

In this way, the metal is etched at home, after which the surface is washed with turpentine, and then polished, giving the product a finished look.

Etching chemical

Now let's look at how to create a pattern on a metal surface without the use of electrical appliances. For this we need chemical substances freely available in hardware stores. So, let's begin. For etching we need:

• "White Spirit";
• paint that does not dissolve in White Spirit;
• acetone;
• resin that is used to cover roofs;
• table salt;
• copper sulfate.

Part cleaning

To begin with, the detail where the image is planned is cleaned with fine sandpaper and degrease. When the surface is ready, you need a place where the pattern will be applied, sealed with adhesive tape or something similar. After that, the rest of the surface, where chemical etching should not affect the metal, is painted over with paint. It can be of any color, as long as it is resistant to White Spirit.

When the paint dries, you can remove the adhesive tape. Beneath it is pure metal, ready to be painted on. Now on this "mini-canvas" you need to apply an image. It is made using resin, which is dissolved in White Spirit until it becomes liquid, like paint. She draws the desired image with a brush. What is good about such improvised paint is that if something does not work out in the drawing, then it will be possible to remove it by moistening a rag or cotton swab in White Spirit. If the drawing has very small details that did not turn out well with a brush, they can be corrected with a needle, scraping off the excess after drying.

In this way, you can etch a knife, keys, in general, any metal object. Now that the drawing is completely ready, you can proceed to the etching itself.

pickling solution

We need a liter of water in which to dissolve 100 g blue vitriol and then add salt. It must be poured until it ceases to dissolve. The resulting mixture will have a blue color. However, after a metal object is immersed in it, the color will begin to change to green.

So, let's load the item. The chemical process starts immediately. In all this production, no substances harmful to health are emitted, so such metal etching at home is safe.

Actions in a chemical reaction

During the reaction, a plaque is formed, which will become more and more. It slows down the whole process, so you need to periodically wash it off with water. You should not do this with various brushes, brushes and other tools, because you can damage the paint. But she seems to be holding the whole drawing, and it will be a shame if, by etching a knife, for example, you inadvertently damage the drawing on it. This is a very delicate work that requires a firm hand and patience.

The depth of the pattern directly depends on the time during which the metal will remain in solution. There are no exact criteria, so each master must himself observe the course of a chemical reaction. And only after doing this several times, it will be possible to say with confidence how much time is needed for the manifestation of the desired pattern to the intended depth.

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

The advantages of electrochemical metal etching at home include the fact that the pattern being created is clearer, this is clearly visible if you look at it with magnification. However, the downside is that this method requires an electrical device, which may not be for everyone.

The advantages of chemical etching include the fact that everything you need can be bought at hardware store. These ingredients are cheap, and, most importantly, you don’t need to look somewhere for a power supply or other devices capable of delivering from 4 to 7 V. However, the imperfect edges of the pattern are a minus.

share personal experience in this seemingly simple matter.
Because I am engaged in amateur radio, then I often make printed circuit boards using the LUT technique (Laser Ironing Technology). Recently, a fellow biker asked me a question: is it possible to pickle steel to make different fuss and how exactly to do it. A rush of the Internet, I was convinced that a solution of ferric chloride in water eats not only copper on textolite, but also almost any iron. What I was able to verify when it spilled onto my galvanized balcony sheet and the very next day I saw decent holes there ... In short, I thought, purkua would not have been pa ...
So we need:
Ferric chloride 200g (70 rubles)
Water 0.5 liters (from the tap)
Printer LASER black and white.
A sheet of paper with text and the least number of pictures from Popular Mechanics or Iron magazine. For some reason, the printer chews paper from Lisa magazines and others ...
Iron.
Computer with Word or any graphic editor who cares. I did it in Word, where the drawing is easiest to stretch as you like.
Sample drawing - took on tattoo sites.
Technology.
Choose a drawing and stretch it as you like.
We take a knife or a piece of iron, we clean it with a zero sandpaper.
We print the drawing on the area with the text of the prepared sheet.
We put it on a knife and iron it with a hot iron until it sticks and the toner slightly comes through the paper.
If necessary, we do the same on the second side of the knife.
We put the knife under water (in a bowl or ladle) for 5-10 minutes.
Fingers begin to rub on paper. The paper rolls and the toner remains on the metal.
If the toner tears, then re-skin and make drawings on the new one and iron it harder and longer.
After that, we protect the rest of the surface of the knife where there will be no etching or by painting it with paint, NC varnish, bituminous varnish. I, in my immeasurable laziness, completely wrapped it with tape ...
So so. IMPORTANT. If you want the etching to be of high quality, you will have to go over the drawing from above or with a marker with paint. Those. something to “strengthen” it, because the toner sticks with small holes and there will be undercuts. The same applies to minor flaws in the translation of the picture.
We put an object with a pattern into a solution of 200 g of ferric chloride in 500 ml of water. (Dissolve not all at once, but in parts - it heats up).
Periodically we take it out and pass it under running water with a paint brush. After a couple of hours, we get a noticeable etching of 0.3-0.5 mm.
Then we overwrite everything with sandpaper and polish or not polish ... Depending on laziness

A sample of the resulting bottom. As I said, it turned out to be undergrass, but this gave the ornament so to speak ... old or something ...








Of course it turned out so-so, but not bad for the first time
P.S / Any etching and inscriptions make the knife less durable and it usually breaks just along the etching line.
All success. 73!